Tales Told by an Idiot

Marsaxlokk and Seafood

2011-10-02T14:53:00.002-07:00

Today we took a boat trip to the fishing village of Marsaxlokk (the x is pronounced sh, so Marsashlokk). Due to a bridge being fitted to the breakwater in Valetta our route was slightly changed but our guide and Cap'n wanted to risk the wrath of the harbour authorities to get his group as close as possible to the historic event. The original breakwater was built by the Scots but was partially destroyed by the Italians in 1942 leaving a gap between the breakwater and dry land. Only now have the Maltese authorities decided to replace the missing span with a new bridge built by Spain at the cost of 2 million euros and it was to be fitted today. The harbour police had created a wide exclusion zone from the work and our cap'n sailed too close to it. The authorities came charging towards us waving furiously. Cap'n Luis waved back in a friendly manner! After a brief, heated exchange in Maltese we sailed away from the perceived danger zone and around the breakwater at a suitable distance. On our return in the afternoon, it was hoped we would sail in under the new bridge but the task had proved more difficult tahn expected and when we returned the bridge was still on the delivery vessel. We were able to sail through the gap in the bridgewater though. Marsaxlokk was not as picturesque as I had hoped but it was a lovely harbour and it was full of local fishing boats known as Luzzu (the double zed is pronounced as in pizza). They are brightly painted and have eyes on the stern for good luck. We had lunch in a local restaurant servinf seafood. Sean had the tuna (which is farmed on the island) and I had the special, Rock fish, which was delicious but overly expensive and took 45 minutes to serve. When I complained, the manageress clasped my hand in hers and said, 'But you must understand, my dear, that this is a special dish that requires special cleaning and preparation. The oven must be at just the right temperature. It is a delecate procedure.' I felt a total heel

Dog in a Handbag

2011-10-02T14:24:00.000-07:00

I have heard about it. I have read about it. I have even seen evidence of it in gossip magazines but until today I had never seen a dog in a handbag! It was a tiny dog in a medium sized handbag and it was looking out at its surroundings in a quite content kind of way but I was left with the following questions; was there anything else in the bag? Was it purely for the purpose of carrying the dog or would the owner also carry her purse, keys, lippy etc in beside the dog? What about suitable poop-proof lining? Was there a special compartment for poop? Or treats? I feel an emptiness in my life now. I need answers. Please help.

Malta

2011-10-02T14:14:00.000-07:00

It’s holiday time and I am desperately in need of some sunshine. Summer has been a complete wash-out and I want some rays before the winter darkness sweeps over me. We only decided to come to Malta about two months ago so it has come along quickly but I am settling into it now and enjoying unwinding in the Mediterranean sunshine.
We spent our first night in London and went to see Les Miserables at the Queen’s Theatre on Shaftsbury Ave, I saw it many years ago in Edinburgh but Sean had never seen it. Alfie Boe was playing Jean Valjean and it was, of course, excellent.
There were no flight hitches and we arrived in Malta on time and in the sunshine. When I booked the hotel, as an incentive to book quickly they offered us a free limo pick-up from the airport. A bit flash, I thought, but why not? The limo turned out to be a Peugeot...bit of a come down! However, the driver was chatty and had lots of information about Malta. I guess the motto is beware of incentives!
We are staying at The Palace in The View Suite. The hotel has six themed suites and The View is on the 8th floor with wonderful views over Sliema and the harbour. There is a tiny balcony off the bedroom which I can’t go out onto as I get vertigo but the larger balcony off the sitting room is much better with loungers and sitting areas. W were greeted with a complimentary bottle of wine and cookies. Nom. Oh, and there is a telescope in the room, in case we decide to become peeping toms!
We took a quick walk around Sliema before coming back to the hotel for dinner in their rooftop restaurant called TemptAsian. The food was very good with plenty of it and for pudding I tried Fried Ice Cream. I was half expecting a bowl of hot milk but it was actually a scoop of ice cream wrapped in a kind of pancake and deep fried. I guess it is a variation on Baked Alaska. It was very good and I would recommend it to any ice cream lover.
We returned to our room briefly before heading down to the open air bar on the ground floor. As the lift door opened we were confronted by a German couple who must have just left the restaurant and were too excited for each other to wait till they got back to their room. Sex in the lift when you are only going down 4 floors is just too much of a quickie for me but they were going for it and even hesitated a moment as we entered as if they weren’t sure if they would stop or not! Life is never dull and we both had a laugh about it!
Today we took the ferry over to Valetta across the harbour. It has been very hot all day and we must have walked miles up and down the hills that the city is built on but it was a great day and a fascinating city. I particularly liked the Archaeological Museum where there was a collection of ancient female figures denoting life and death. The one that I especially like is called The Sleeping Lady and I have been hoping to acquire a copy in the tourist shops but they seem not to have that one although they have several others. Curious. Needs further investigation.
We returned to the hotel in the late afternoon to freshen up and have a quick bite to eat before heading back to Valetta for the all night festival called Notte Bianco. The whole city was transformed into stages and performance areas for singers, dancers, poetry reading, marching bands, you name it, it was happening. Many of the historic buildings were also open for free. What a great night! Young people, old people, families with children and tiny babies...everyone was there and taking part. We loved it but our legs were giving out on us so we have now returned to the hotel to get some rest before tomorrow’s boat trip to a fishing village and market.

Another birthday

2011-07-13T10:49:00.000-07:00

There is a little red-headed girl who lives at the end of our street. It is her birthday today. I know this because her parents decorate the tree in their front garden with balloons and stars each year on her birthday. I do not know the family but every year when the balloons and stars go up in the tree I heave a sigh of relief and quietly wish the little red-headed girl another happy birthday.
It is not that she has a life threatening condition or illness, as far as I am aware, but that each summer she has been running, cycling and playing ball games in the street. This began as soon as she could walk and has always been unsupervised by any responsible adult. I am simply glad that she has survived to play another year.
Ours is not a busy street and it is a 20mph zone but I am amazed that in her short life she appears to have avoided injury or death as she runs and cycles back and forth across the street. I suppose, like us, other drivers know that she is there and reduce speed accordingly but she must also lead a charmed life to have reached another birthday. May you have many more birthdays little red-headed girl. I just wish your antics didn't leave me with my heart in my mouth so often!

Travelling (too) light

2011-07-12T06:13:00.000-07:00

I would like to consider myself a seasoned traveller. I have travelled en famille, with Sean, with friends and as a solo traveller. In fact one of the original thoughts I had for a title of this blog was 'An Idiot Abroad' as I knew I would inevitably have to recount some of my strange experiences and situations that I find myself in when I am let loose on the world.
Despite a well stamped passport and a long term love/hate relationship with Scotrail and East Coast Railways I have never mastered the art of packing. I belong firmly in the school of 'I might need this so I will pack it despite the fact I have never needed it before'traveller. This is not to say I always remember to pack everything that I do need. Most commonly I forget to pack my hairbrush and toothpaste but I have been known to completely miss out underwear. I tend to think that as long as I have my passport and tickets I can always pick up anything I have forgotten in a local shop when I reach my destination.
Sean, on the other hand, is an expert packer. He always says, 'Lay out all your clothes and money that you wish to take, then pack half the clothes and twice the money.' He got packing down to a fine art when he spent three years commuting between Aberdeen and The Hague. Each Monday he would leave for the airport with a carry on case and return on Fridays ready to do it all again the following week.
Recently we travelled down to Bridge of Allen for a wedding. We stayed overnight in the Adamo hotel where we had a wonderful evening meal before retiring to the bar and finally to bed in preparation for the forthcoming wedding. Given what I have stated above, imagine my shock when Sean's first words when he woke up in the morning were, 'I haven't packed my tie.'
This revelation, in normal circumstances, would not elicit the panic I felt just then. After all, suitable neck wear can be picked up in any gent's shop or department store. The problem was that we needed a Red Gordon tartan tie to match his kilt! However, not only were we still in Scotland (there would have been no possible solution in any other country!)but we were in Stirling so there simply had to be kilt shops aplenty in which to find, if not Red Gordon, then something suitable. Given that, it still took visits to two shops before he returned with a Red Gordon tie!
The wedding, despite the rain, was wonderful. The Bride, beautiful, the groom charming and the guests, witty. And Sean, well turned out and handsome!

Reptiles

2011-06-04T11:58:00.000-07:00

Sean doesn't speak any French but we have been coming here regularily for 8 years so he has inevitably picked up the odd phrase or two. And, of course, many French and English words are very similar. So, we were driving from Foix, where we had been to the weekly market, to St Girons, where we were going to the Intermarche to pick up a few things for our evening meal, when we passed a sign that said 'Ferme de les Reptiles'. After a few seconds, Sean asked 'Did that just say 'Farm of Reptiles?'. I congratulated him on his perceptive translation and a few miles further on we passed a sign saying 'Parc Dinosaurs'. I had to laugh at the apparent one-upmanship! 'But', interjected a very serious husband, 'only one of them will have live exhibits.'
I do hope it is the latter but we didn't stop to find out...

Dutch Cyclists.

2011-06-04T05:35:00.000-07:00

The area around Biert is a favourite place for walkers and cyclists. The Tour de France regularily comes through here and most of the visitors to the area come for the mountain trails and cycling opportunities. There are about 30 Dutch cyclists staying in the auberge near where we are staying and as we have been driving through the mountains around here they have been puffing and panting their way up and freewheeling down the windy mountain roads.
I do wonder, though, what practice Dutch cyclists have for the mountainous terrain in the Pyrenees. Holland is famously flat so I guess the first few days must be murder on the leg muscles and then they either get used to it or give up and succumb to the call of the wine.

Unknown whiskeys

2011-06-02T08:24:00.000-07:00

Tony and Sue live fairly close to the Spannish border so we decided to drive over for the day. There isn't a lot to see except for stunning mountain views but the town of Vielha is quite pretty. Unfortunately we got there in time for the siesta so eveything was closed! We managed to have some lunch then went for a wander through the old narrow streets but couldn't do any shopping.
A lot of French people travel across the border for cheap goods and booze so there are many supermarkets and factory outlets dotted along the roads. On the way back we stopped in one of them, a soulless warehouse piled high with bottles of every kind of alcohol. I was particularly interested to see how many kinds of whiskey they sold, several of which I had never previously heard of. The kind called Sir Pitterson was a strange pink colour and was available in 2 litre plastic bottles! This was probably the worst offence against whiskey but was by no means the only one, unfortunately.

Toulouse Tales 2

2011-05-31T09:20:00.001-07:00

Toulouse is also known as The Rose City because of its red brick buildings. The bricks are long and thin and reminded us of the buildings in Pompeii. I guess the Romans are responsible for this feature. The centre, where we were staying, is dominated by The Capitoleum, a local government building on a large, busy square with cafes along the opposite side and various events staged in the centre. In the short time we were in the city there was a bustling market, a tented protest/artist’s event, anti racism protest, various musical events and an exhibition of Toulouse’s multi-cultural diversity. There is a great mix of ethnicities in the city which is reflected in their music, shops, cafes, restaurants etc. Toulouse is also, of course, a university town so there are many students on bikes and mopeds. We were especially enthralled when, on Saturday afternoon, people began to arrive on the square with sofas and arm chairs. At first I thought it was a street act but as we walked back through the square later in the evening there were groups of young people arranged on the sofas and chairs having a good time with friends, listening to music or even making their own music! What a great way to spend an evening with friends! Like an evening in, but out!
One drawback of having a room overlooking the square was a certain amount of noise from the crowds but they were very good natured, no loud drunkenness and the music and drumming stopped before midnight. In the morning the square was clear and ready for another series of events.

Toulouse tales

2011-05-31T09:07:00.000-07:00

I’m not a novice traveller but I still sometimes, inadvertently, behave like one. Leaving passports in airport security is a basic blunder that most but the scattiest travellers can avoid. Unfortunately, on this occasion it is I who will provide the humorous tale to be retold in the security staff’s coffee breaks. Going through security at Aberdeen airport, I laid our passports down in order to put my shoes back on and collect my bag and camera. Sean had gone into the second security queue so when he came through we walked away to check into the lounge. It was only when I was looking for my lounge membership card that I realised I didn’t have the passports!
I ran back to security and as I approached it was obvious that the security staff were ready to have a joke at my expense. Had I changed my mind about travelling today they inquired. Yes, they did have two passports but could I confirm the names before they handed them back!
Oh well, never a dull moment!
Paris CDG is not our favourite airport but it was the cheapest available option for a connection to Toulouse on this trip. One of the major problems we always have in CDG is the short connection times and the distance between arrival and departure gates. This time the pilot decided to land at the northernmost runway and taxi for 15 minutes to the southernmost point before parking up several miles from the terminal so we had to get a bus back to drop us off in the wrong area and then do a sprint across to the right gate!
We made it in time and joined yet another security queue behind the French equivalent of the Bullingdon Club, one of whom was wearing a Dominique Strauss-Kahn mask. Oh what hilarity! His chums were finding all so amusing.
Our flight was boarding as we got through security so at least we didn’t have to wait around at the departure gates. One of the other reasons I dislike CDG is the total lack of decent facilities at departures. The cafes are tiny and crowded and there are no interesting shops for browsing.
Usually on arrival in Toulouse we head straight for the hire car and drive south but this time we had booked a hotel in Toulouse for a couple of nights where Tony and Sue would join us before we went south to their house. Our taxi driver from the airport to the Grand Balcon Hotel was very chatty so my limited school girl French was fully tested! I even managed to check into the hotel without resorting to my usual plea that they speak English!
It is a lovely boutique hotel right in the centre of the city overlooking the main square, known as Le Capitole. There is a general 1930s flight theme and I believe St. Exupery stayed there. The decor is black and white with paintings of monochrome clouds on walls and ceilings. We had the suite on the 2nd floor.
As suites go, it was small but very comfortable. There were a couple of quirky features though, that I will relate here. The en-suite shower room was beautiful, with a large walk in shower and His and Her modern wash hand basins. Nothing unusual there, except that there wasn’t a door on it! Direct, unhindered access from the bedroom!
Over the bed there was a smoked glass picture of clouds in grey and black tones. Or I thought it was a picture! On closer inspection, we discovered it was a window...into the shower! As I said to Sean, after 30+ years together I think we know each other well enough for this not to faze us too much!

Swans and wet feet

2011-04-02T12:13:00.000-07:00

The morning started dull and damp but by lunchtime the sun had come out and the sky was blue and clear.
While the rest of the world celebrated International Women's Day in March, Orkney decided it would be on April 2nd (today). I went into Kirkwall to lend my support to a programme of events at the Town Hall. Unfortunately I missed the talk about Beatrix Potter as scientist but I really enjoyed talking to some dynamic women who had created projects to help women and children in Bolivia, Zimbabwee and Bangladesh among others. It is absolutely amazing that a tiny island community of less than 20,000 people can support 5 substantial projects in a variety of countries around the world.
It was such a beautiful day I decided to go to Stenness to photograph the Standing Stones at Brodgar. I love my new camera, a Christmas present from Sean! As I was leaving I noticed some swans swimming close to the edge of the loch so wandered a bit closer to see if I could get some photos. Another couple of photographers were thinking the same and gor there before me, scaring off the swans in the process. However, I managed to creep up on the pair as they were preening their feathers further along the waterside. I was amazed how close they let me get but the hazzard of waterside photography is wet feet! Never mind. I think I got some decent photos. If the weather stays this good I will get out to Skara Brae and perhaps Maeshowe too.

Seeing Stars

2011-04-02T04:28:00.000-07:00

I arrived in Orkney at 11.15 pm on the Hrossey from Aberdeen. It hadn't been the best of crossings but it was a beautiful evening in Kirkwall. The road was quiet at that time so I drove out to Mum's really quickly. Of course there was nothing to see in the dark but as I got to Mum's and stepped out of the car I looked up at the star filled sky. It had been so long since I had actually seen stars in the sky as they are usually obliterated by city street lighting. It was breathtaking with so many twinkly lights up above in an absolutely clear Orkney sky.

Table for one, please.

2010-10-11T14:16:00.000-07:00

Travelling alone, or just because you want to, there are times when you go into a restaurant and ask for a table for one. No big deal. Well, actually it can still be a big deal if you are a woman as I regularly (re)discover.
Since the age of about 18 I have been doing this and back then it was even harder. The first time I did it, I had just finished a long shift as a waitress in a pizza place and I really fancied taking a load off and having a curry. When I entered the restaurant (one of my favourites and it is still one I frequent after all these years)and asked for a table for one I think I must have developed two heads or at, the very least, an offensive odour. Heads turned, disapproving looks, whispered concerns.
Was I waiting for a companion to join me?
No, I'll have the menu please.
What was there about a woman choosing to dine alone that was so shocking? I'm not sure, but I definitely learned that it was 'not the done thing' that evening. Perhaps they felt sorry for me - 'Poor thing, no one to eat with.' Perhaps I was an aberration - 'Poor thing, no man to take her out on a date'. Perhaps they feared I couldn't/wouldn't pay - 'do women earn enough to pay for their own meals?' I don't know if it was one, or any combination of the above but the experience shook my confidence and it was a long time before I chose to dine alone again.
The next time I dined alone I remembered that first occasion and, feeling it was going to be an ordeal, I took book with me. I could read while waiting for my meal and that way I wouldn't have to look at the conspicuous disapproval from waiting staff and other customers. I would be too blissfully absorbed in my book to worry about what was going on around me. Well, yes and no. I still felt conspicuous and I could still feel the eyes watching me and I certainly heard the older woman at a nearby table saying to her (male) companion. 'Oh dear, she must have been stood up and is trying to put a brave face on it.'
On a side note, these comments can, unfortunately, be accompanied by a request that you 'must join them'. Always a difficult one, that! But one I learned, politely, to decline!
I have persevered with dining alone. It wasn't a pleasant experience in the early days but I learned to leave my book behind and enjoy the occasion. I like people watching, I like good food and I like my own company. In recent years I have frequently dined alone while away on research trips, at conferences etc and I have learned to roll with the comments or ignore them. Thankfully, attitudes are changing and it is no longer such a taboo. However, every now and then, I am reminded that it is still not an act that is totally accepted.
I was in Edinburgh at the weekend and before going to the birthday party I was there to attend, I went for an Italian meal on my own.
A table for one, please.
I recognised the look. The quick look round. Was there a table in a dark corner where they could safely serve me without causing an outrage? I smiled and pointed to a table by the window. I'll have that one, please.
Panicked waiters make sure you are served quickly. I didn't have a book to hide behind. I never do now. The food was good and as I glanced around the other diners I noticed another single woman in the dark corner. Neither of us felt the need to offer to share our company but we smiled at each other. I think we both understood the table for one problem.

The Good, The Bad and the Ugly

2010-09-27T03:14:00.000-07:00

Our two day stop in Egypt was everything and more that we had hoped for. The Valley of the Kings, Luxor, Cairo, Pyramids etc. Our guide, Manal was extremely knowledgeable and helpful and I certainly don't envy her job! You see, the problem with travelling in a group is the group! These are not people I would choose to spend any time with and quite frankly wanted to slap several of them!
Here is a 'for instance'. As we were on a tight schedule, every time we left the coach we were given a time to be back on board so we could depart for the next place. On no occasion did this go to plan. There was always someone (usually the same culprits)who felt the rules didn't apply to them and they were in no way responsible for holding up 40 other travellers. The worst case of this was in Luxor where, after visiting the absolutely fantastic Temple at Karnak, we checked into our overnight hotel. We were given an hour to relax/freshen up and were told to be on the bus no later than 6.30 so we could go to the Temple at Luxor for a sunset tour of the ruins. Between 6.30 and 6.45 we were waiting for 6 people. Two others were eventually left behind at 6.50.
After the tour we returned to find the couple complaining in the foyer that we had gone without them. My tolerance levels completely went AWOL when one of the other late travellers came in and said.'It's OK. You didn't miss much. Sean, ever ready to avoid the Diplomatic Incident promptly dragged me away as I was about to let rip!
Had we left on time we could have returned with enough time to change for dinner. As it was we had to go in feeling grubby and sweaty. Of course, those responsible for the delay were all freshened up and enjoying the facilities. Arghhh!
There are many fantastic things about the cruise and destinations but ultimately I won't be recommending cruising to anyone simply because of the self-importance and selfishness of many, if not most of the guests on board. The conspicuous consumption, greed and the lack of respect for local customs have completely angered me to the point of wanting to go home.
On the positive side, we have visited the most extraordinary places and seen some fantastic sites. And that I would thoroughly recommend!

Turkey and sailing activities

2010-09-23T06:24:00.001-07:00

I had never been to Turkey so didn't know what to expect. It was, however, fantastic. We had booked a full day tour and our guide was Oz. He was very chatty and informative and too us around ancient cities, temples and amphitheatres before heading back to Kusadasi where the boat docked.
Ephesus was amazing, especially the huge internal facade of the library of Celsius. The recreated arrival of Antony and Cleopatra in the city was a slightly strange interlude but nevertheless enjoyable! The temple at Didyma was equally awe inspiring and must have been quite a site in its day.
After the tour we were taken to a carpet shop in Kusadasi for a demonstration of the Turkish technique of carpet weaving. The array of different designs was stunning (as were the prices). I was able to get a small one and Sean managed to knock a few dollars of the price as well. As we were paying the sales assistant found out we were Scottish and said one of the guys in the shop was married to a Scot. He was duly found and brought to us! When we said we were from Aberdeen he actually said 'Fit Like!' His wife was from Cumbernauld!
And now to Egypt. As this is a day at sea there are many activities arranged for the guests. We decided to go to the lecture entitled 'Enduring Egypt' which turned out to be 'Enduring a garbled presentation of amateur Egyptian history'. Later we went to a seminar on geo-politics and demography and how wonderful it is that we are all making so much money...Sean felt it best that I be dragged out before there was an 'incident'.
Now to the Ice Skating Show...the days are just packed...

New Shoes.

2010-09-23T06:02:00.000-07:00

I guess we all purchase new items when we book our holidays but this trip has really brought home to me how much footwear companies benefit from the tourist industry.
As we were docking the other day and all the tour goups were gathering to head off the boat I glanced down and was greeted by a sea of sparkly white new trainers.
I have since had a bit of a foot fetish and have noticed that all the trainers worn on board are also sparkly white so unless they are having them cleaned every day (and this is certainly possible with the attentive stateroom attendants - ours is called Dwen from Tobago) most people have bought at least two new pairs for this holiday.
Toe post sandals have also peaked in sales recently according to my (very unscientific) survey. And I will forever have mental picture of thousands of people panic buying trainers in the summer months.

Sailing, Athens and Rhodes.

2010-09-21T07:39:00.000-07:00

After Naples we had a day at sea before Athens. There were lots of activities such as the Sexy Legs competition by the pool which makes this a kind of floating Butlins holiday camp in my opinion. It was, needless to say, avoided by the Laings. The prize in the bingo was tempting to say the least - an upgrade to the Royal Suite - but at 32 dollars a ticket I figured some other sucker could win it.
Sea Days are also the formal evenings in the dining room. As the luggage was still being held hostage by Alitalia, Royal Caribbean had provided free tux hire for Sean. It was smart, of course, but wasn't the kilt! The food on board is really good and the escargots, duck and cheesecake didn't disappoint.
Athens, when we arrived was hot. A humid 33 degrees. We had been too late to book a tour so we did it ourselves and I'm really glad we did. Of course the Acropolis was heaving with humanity but we didn't have to stand around in a group listening to a tour guide and were able to stop when we wanted, eat when we wanted and generally please ourselves what we did. It was a fantastic day and I was able to add another Hard Rock Pilsner glass to my growing collection. I also bought myself a leather handbag.
We got a taxi back to the ship and the driver asked where we were from. When we said Scotland he said his son had been at Strathclyde University and they were over recently for his graduation! We were instantly his new best friends!
Back on board we were able to do the happy dance of the prodigal luggage! Sean can now change his clothes! As I mentioned earlier, missing luggage is a fairly common part of our travels but this time has really taken the proverbial biscuit!
Sean had booked the Portofino restaurant, one of the two speciality restaurants on board. As we sailed out of Piraeus we were seated beside the window and watched the sun go down over the Greek Islands as we dined. The food was fantastic and Ratko, our waiter from Serbia was very attentive and ready for a joke.
Today was a late start and we were able to sit on the balcony of our stateroom as we docked in Rhodes. We hadn't booked a tour as we thought we would just take it easy around the old town of Rhodes and do our own thing. It was very hot again but we weren't in a hurry and were able to sit in the shade when it got too hot to wander around.
Back on board it was cocktail time and on that note I will sign off. Sailing for Turkey as I type for a busy tour entitled 'Best of Antiquity'. Watch this space...

Day 2 - Pompeii

2010-09-19T06:15:00.000-07:00

Our first stop was Naples. We had a quick breakfast before heading out for our booked tour which included a motor launch trip from Salerno to Amalfi, lunch, visit to a cameo factory and the ruins at Pompeii.
It was a beautiful day and the boat trip was amazing. The Amalfi coast was stunning and the town was very picturesque. We even had a short time to explore on our own in Amalfi so we visited the cathedral to St Andrew (didn't pay to see his relics though!), did a bit of tourist shopping and people-watched from a cafe on the town square.
We then took the tour bus to Pompeii where lunch was served. We were only one tour coach among several which all arrived at the same time. It must be a daily occurrence at the hotel because they were certainly well practiced in serving several hundred people all at once. I have to say the food was pretty decent too. There was even entertainment as a local trio played and sang local Neapolitan songs for us as we dined!
I really enjoyed the demonstration at the cameo factory. It takes about 4 days to make each cameo (brooch, earrings etc) and as each is hand carved they are all unique. I have never really been a fan of cameos before but some of them were stunning. There were traditional and modern designs but as prices were around 500 euros fro a brooch I gave it a miss!
Of course, the highlight of the day was the visit to the ruins at Pompeii. It was everything and more than I had expected. I hadn't realised just how big the site is. On a tour like this it was only possible to see a few highlights but we both decided we would definitely be back to this part of the world again someday and we will spend more time in Pompeii then.
I was a hot and exhausting day but we had promised ourselves cocktails back on the boat. I went for a shower while Sean tried to find out if his suitcase had arrived on board yet. Yerghh! Cold shower! Not impressed. Garghhh! No luggage! Seriously not impressed. Guest relations did provide free laundry for Sean, a shaving kit and tuxedo hire for the formal evening. Hopefully they will have made some progress on locating the luggage before we get to Athens and Sean will be reunited with his clothes!

Travel Gremlins

2010-09-19T06:13:00.000-07:00

As a last minute treat at the end of summer, we decided to book a cruise around the Eastern Mediterranean. But all is not smooth sailing...
We seem to have a built in gremlin to the travel process. It is the gremlin of the missing luggage and it has struck again. On many previous holidays the gremlin has located and secreted our luggage but today decided that I would get mine but Sean’s would disappear into an airport luggage black hole. Both cases seem to have made it from Manchester to Paris Charles de Gaulle (a veritable hell hole of lost luggage for us) but only my case managed onto the connecting Alitalia flight to Rome. Rome may actually be my new favourite airport to hate.
On arrival in Rome we managed to find the lovely cruise woman but not the complete set of expected luggage. This, of course, means a long wait to speak to someone at the airline who is, naturally, completely uninterested that you have been separated from your baggage. They would, in very bored tones, like to know what your luggage looks like and wonder if you had a short connection time at C de G which would explain why your luggage couldn’t get on the plane with you. One piece did but the other piece didn’t. This requires an Italian shrug of the shoulders as if to say ‘go figure’.
The helpful computer was able to tell us that the lost baggage was on the next flight but would not arrive in time to get to the ship that we were sailing on at 5.00pm. It would have to catch up with us at Naples tomorrow.
Watch this space. I will let you know if this actually happens. However, as the first formal night is in two days and Sean’s kilt is in the lost luggage, he is threatening to wear nothing at all if said luggage doesn’t arrive. I urge all relevant authorities to do their very best to get the suitcase here on time or I take no responsibility for the consequences.....

A Busy Weekend.

2010-06-27T09:01:00.000-07:00

It was short but very sweet. We had a great weekend in York which has included Art Galleries, historic sites,fine dining, constant sunshine and a fantastic birthday party.
Our hotel was comfortable and convenient for the centre of York but overpriced and a bit shabby in the public areas as it had recently been taken over by new owners and they were getting some work done. They could have done with having more staff on at breakfast, and air con at night would have made for more comfortable nights.
Our meal on the first night, at the Vecchia Scuola was good and was accompanied by an enthusiastic piano player. After exhausting his repertoire of classics he lead the diners in a chorus of the Hokey Cokey!
Although it was hot during the night the cold shower that greeted us in the morning was not welcome. When we complained at reception we were told the water heater had somehow 'switched itself off'!
Our first stop after breakfast (Full English heart attack on a plate)was the Minster. It is certainly impressive and I was particularly taken with the exhibition of the stonemasons' work replacing damaged gargoyles. The examples of stained glass were also interesting, especially the piece that had some 18th century graffiti on it, stating it was etched by a a 15 year old plumber and glazier with his name and date.
Many years ago I played the lead in a school production of a play entitled 'The Rag Woman of the Shambles' so it was fiting I walk down the real Shambles while in York! It was rather crowded and no evidence on view of a real rag woman!
Our next stop was the Castle museum. Many of the displays represent rooms as they would have been at certain periods in history. The 1950s room was reminiscent of many rooms I had seen growing up and I was delighted to see a trio of 'flying ducks' on the wall. I remember having them at home on the wall of the stairs. I had unfortunately broken one so we only had two! There was also a collection of toys through the ages which brought back a few memories. They had a Sindy doll in the clothes that my one had. She had more hair than mine as I decided to cut her hair one day in the mistaken belief it would grow back. I was quite disappointed in Sindy after that!
We went to a seafood restaurant for lunch before getting the train to Leeds for Lindsay's football themed party. I had acquired a Scotland shirt from 1982 World Cup and Sean had an Aberdeen scarf. Everyone else at the event were, surprisingly (!), wearing England strips! It was a great afternoon and so much fun catching up with James, Matt, Carlie, Lindsay, Mark, Chloe, Amy and Andrew.
On the way back to the hotel we stopped in a little late night cafe serving delicious bread and butter pudding and divine meringue cheesecake! Mmmmmmm! Well, it beats getting kebabs when you have had too much to drink!
We checked out this morning and went to the City Art Gallery which had an exhibition about China (the country not plates). From there we went to a little private gallery where the Rolf Harris collection was currently on show as it tours the country.
We then headed for the Jorvik centre for the Viking experience. I wasn't sure what to expect but it was OK. Smaller than I thought it would be but it is the sort of exhibit I would have enjoyed taking children too.
A bistro luch was followed by some last minute shopping. We had discovered a hat shop (my idea of heaven!) so we went in there. Sean was looking for a new hat and I was like a child in a sweet shop! So much choice! SO many styles! Sean got an Australian fold up hat and I had narrowed it down to a 'cute' (Sean's word) cloche, a battered cowboy, a pork pie and a 1920s style golfers cap. I was allowed only one and went for the 'cute'. Happiness is hat-shaped!
To finish off the weekend England lost 4-1 to Germany in the World Cup. No comment on that one!
So that was our weekend. It has been great to have some time together again. I think we still like each other.

A weekend away.

2010-06-25T15:38:00.000-07:00

It seems like a long time since I finished archive ferreting in Leeds. It is great to be back home and settled into my old life again but I miss the good times and great friends I made while I was there.
This weekend is both a long needed break for Sean and I together but is also a chance to catch up with the Leeds gang and introduce Sean to them. Tomorrow we will go through to Leeds for Lindsay's birthday party but tonight we are in York. It is a beautiful evening and the city is so wonderful.
We arrived late so dropped off our bags and went out for some food. Several places were fully booked so we eventually ended up in an Italian restaurant overlooking the Minster. In its former life it was York School for Girls and the interior has been maintained as it was in the past. There are several seperate rooms and as we were in a small room at the front of the building we figured it was probably the secretary's office. My seat was next to the door that probably lead into the Headmistresses office!
The hotel is in the centre of the city and seems to be having some work done. The communal areas are quite shabby but he room is fine. There is a four poster bed an a lovely, modern bathroom. The decore however is purple and lime! An acquired taste methinks!

Why I love what I do.

2010-03-25T15:11:00.000-07:00

There are many days of dull tedium being an archive ferret. I have spent many hours opening files, reading boring correspondence, annual accounts, minutes of meetings, reports etc and then standing for equally tedious hours photographing it. But every now and then a little nugget comes along and makes it all so worth while. A couple of weeks ago it was the hand drawn maps and watercolours. Today it was telegrams. Of course telegrams do not have the same immediate beauty as art and I have looked through many telegrams saying nothing more exciting than 'Arriving Thursday' or 'Send money'. Today, however, they told their own little story in tiny little sentences.
It wasn't that it was a previously untold story. It is in fact well known. In March 1921 Russian soldiers,sailors and civilians in the Baltic fortress at Kronstadt near St Petersburg, rebelled against the Bolshevik government. It was brutally suppressed by the Red Army with many of the protesters killed, jailed or fleeing across the ice to Finland (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kronstadt_rebellion)
The rebellion only lasted a couple of intense weeks and that story was told by the telegrams in the Zemgor files I read today. In beautifully succinct sentences they revealed, 'Kronstadt is liberated from the Bolsheviks', 'The situation in Kronstadt is difficult' 'We must have success', 'Bombardment continues', 'Children need food' and finally 'Kronstadt has fallen. In Bolshevik hands. Thousands of refugees in Finland.'
Between 'Kronstadt is liberated' and 'Kronstadt has fallen' I was caught up in their struggle and could feel the tears well up as I read the last telegram. The lucky ones who escaped to Finland were met by my Dead Russian Guys who, despite their undoubted feelings of devastation at the lost chance to overthrow the hated Bolsheviks and the opportunity to return to their own country once more, provided shelter, food and a future for the defeated rebels.
Damn! I love what I do! And I love my Dead Russian Guys!

Idiot Magnet

2010-03-23T13:03:00.001-07:00

I am an Idiot Magnet. I don’t know why, but I am. Maybe it is an illness. Maybe it is a lifestyle choice or maybe it’s genetic. I’m pretty sure Westboro Baptist Church has a sign saying ‘God Hates Idiot Magnets’ but that’s just the way it is. I’m not sure if it works on a timer or if it simply sucks in Idiots whenever they are in the vicinity but it was certainly switched on today. All I ask is your understanding.
Let me tell you all about it.
After another 10-hour shift with the Dead Russian Guys I left the archive to find it was pouring with rain ...and I had left my umbrella at home. Never mind, I had miPod on shuffle so set off for the bus stop. Everything was going well until I heard a howl behind me. It was a real werewolf kinda howl and I must admit it did make me jump! There was also some indistinguishable shouting so I carried on without looking back (don’t want to encourage them by looking). I should have known the Magnet was working then but I live in hope that it misses the occasional Idiot, especially on a rainy night in Leeds (like Brook Benton’s Rainy Night in Georgia but not so nice).
The shouting continued in an indistinguishable manner until said Idiot walked past me. Magnet on full strength, the Idiot decided I was to be the target of his howling tirade. It was at this point that the rant began to become understandable. Would I, he wanted to know, stand by my husband if he accidentally killed another man by punching him in the face? Well, would I? Would I? Without waiting for my answer, I was told that I would indeed stand by him because he was my husband and therefore it would be wrong of me to ‘Dob him into the police’.
Phew, I thought. I’m glad I’ve got that sorted. Now if only a green man would come on I could cross the street and hopefully get the Magnet to deactivate by putting some distance between me and the Idiot. No, that wasn’t going to happen. (I wonder if the Magnet has something to do with keeping lights from changing to green?).
Having gone through his repertoire of moral education the Idiot started all over again at the beginning. Well? Would I? Would? (Did I say this was at the top of his voice?) While he was walking a few paces ahead of me and shouting over his shoulder at me other people in the street were staring at HIM but then he decided I possibly wasn’t hearing his questions clearly enough so fell into step beside me and began yelling in my right ear. Now everyone in the street was looking at ME. As if he was MY fault!
By the time he had gone through this monologue 3 or 4 times the lights eventually changed and I made my getaway across the street.
I just want to leave you with this thought, dear friends. If I accidentally killed a total stranger in the street by punching him in the face, would you stand by me? Well? Would you? Would you?

Rage!

2010-03-10T13:51:00.000-08:00

I have been surprised at how well things have been going in the archive and with my room renting. I have been getting through the work at a reasonable pace and the room has worked out great. Matt and James are great landlords and we are getting on well.
The weekend was lovely. Lots of relaxing, good company and great weather.
The 'Case of the Vomiting Passenger' on the Monday morning bus was unexpected entertainment (the young man opposite me was either - a)not very well, at all or b) not quite recovered from some heavy Sunday night drinking.)and the discovery of some wonderful hand drawn maps and paintings in the archive was a delightful bonus. Otherwise it has been an uneventful week.
I suppose I should have known that it was going too well, or that there had to be a down side to my excess feeling of contentedness. But sometimes it just blindsides you and trips you up when you least expect it. Today my nemesis, the mobile phone, did just that.
Now, those of you who know and love (?) me know me for the gentle, mild mannered person that I normally am (!) but the mobile phone (or rather the inconsiderate mobile phone user)drives me into a frenzied psychopathic rage. The first mobile moment happened late this afternoon in the reading room of the archive - a place of quiet reading pleasure and discovery. Ring! RING! It's OK, I thought, take a deep breath and it will be switched off...she just forgot to switch it off on the way in (Despite the signs asking for all phones to be switched off and the polite idea that it might be courteous to do so!)OH NO! She actually answered it and said...Wait for it...'I'm in the library'!!!!!! (Excessive use of exclamation marks are justified at this point!!)I was so flabbergasted I probably looked at her with my mouth hanging open like a fish! Did she then hang up? If only! By the time I had made several incoherent spluttering noises she did get the idea that I may have been a tad unamused and said 'I'll call you back in a minute!' I should add that she was not a 19 year old student but was at least as old as me if not older!
I finished my last file for the day and I knew there was a good chance I would miss my bus. I have to walk about a mile to the bus stop and I rushed along but to no avail. Unfortunately if I miss the 6.50 p.m. I have to wait until 7.35 for the next one. I settled down to wait and discovered that miPod had decided it wasn't going to work. Occasionally it decides not to do anything and I usually have to let the battery die before it will work again. This was going to be one of these occasions. Oh Well, I thought, I will people-watch instead. Along comes another passenger for the bus, realises she has also missed the bus and decides to phone her friend. Who would have thought such a small woman would have such a loud voice?! Apparently her husband likes to have a bath every night and doesn't think that other people might also want to use the bathroom, her hoover isn't working, her children are difficult, work is a pain, her Mother-in-law...well, we won't go there!...I heard, it all. In fact most of the city centre probably heard it. When we got on the bus 30 minutes later she was still talking/shouting. Just when I thought I was finally going to get some peace another woman got on and I heard all about how she gets up at 6.00a.m to take her partner to work so she can have the car but she is getting too tired doing this so they are thinking about moving house but right now she is going home to tidy her bedroom...I DON'T WANT TO KNOW!!!
Then, when I got back 'home' Matt met me at the door and asked if I wanted some beef and ale stew with dumplings for my dinner. Suddenly I wasn't a grumpy old woman anymore.....

Of Poultry and Pints.

2010-03-07T08:29:00.000-08:00

I have had a great week, both in and out of the archives. At first I seemed to be going through the files really slowly but by Friday I had actually managed to get through everything I had hoped for the week and as the archivist wasn't going to be in on Saturday I was able to take the day off! It was really good to have stay in bed on Saturday morning!
James finished his job at the school on Thursday so I brought home some champagne to celebrate his new job which he will start on Tuesday. I had also just heard that Sean starts a new job on Monday so it was a double celebration (even though Sean wasn't here, obviously!) We had a really good evening chatting and getting to know more about each other. Good times!
Matt has had to work all weekend. There is a major Brass Band competition on in the theatre. It sounds hilarious but he wasn't looking forward to it! I had thought I would go into the city centre for a wander around but it was a horrible wet day so decided to stay at home instead. James and I got bored by mid afternoon so we decided to go up to the local pub for a couple of drinks before tea. On the way up we were spotted by some chickens. One of the bolder ones thought it would be worth its while to follow us. I'm not sure why as I had no chicken food with me but it was persistent.
Today (Sunday) James and I went into the centre for lunch and a wander around. It was a beautiful day down by the canal and we had a nice lunch in a pub. Pubs are tending to feature quite prominently in my stay in Leeds!
Back to the archives for another week and then home for the weekend! Yay!

Small Thoughts on the Naming of Streets.

2010-02-27T07:17:00.000-08:00

On my way to the bus each morning I walk along Gainsborough Place. It is an ordinary street of terraced houses in the residential area in which I am staying. There are really no outstanding features about it...other than its name. I have no idea why it was given that name. Perhaps it is named after the famous English painter or even a celebrated local person. It really doesn't matter. What interested me about the name was its length. If you call a street 'Gainsborough Place' and put the name on signs to be placed on the houses at each end of the street wouldn't it be better if the signs didnt meet in the middle of the row of terraced houses? Just a thought.

The Dance of the Archive Ferret. (Photography Waltz)

2010-02-26T14:44:00.000-08:00

I am settling into my routine now. After ordering up a batch of files I begin by going through a box to check what is in it. Depending on the contents I will then Itemise them, noting date and type of document (letter, report, minutes of meetings, accounts etc.) I can do all this in the reading room which is a great place to work. Then comes the difficult part.
Usually I have to move out of the reading room to the group study area next door to take photographs of the documents. The two rooms are separated by a glass wall so it doesn’t really feel like a different room but it means my moving around does not disturb other archive users. I also get to eavesdrop on groups of undergrads or members of the public doing group projects. This week alone I have shared the group space with students looking at the history of the student newspaper (I think they were looking for something to do with Jack Straw – Did he go to Leeds Uni?), two members of the public looking at books relating to graveyard plots, family historians, someone from the British library researching Yorkshire dialects and an art historian looking at some fantastic pictures of Hungarian folk dances!
Once I have arranged myself with the documents, a document rest, my camera etc., the dance of the archive ferret begins. First is a small step to the right to pick up the first document, then a small step to the left to place the document on the rest. A dip to the right to pick up the camera, straighten up to take the shot, then replace the camera on the right of the table. Pick up the document and take a small step to the left where I put said document down. Then a large step to the right to pick up the next document and we begin all over again. Easy.
Well, up until today this dance has lasted a maximum of two hours...today it was FOUR AND A HALF HOURS! My back, right shoulder and right knee are decidedly unimpressed with my workout and are growling in dissatisfaction! Oh well! Only 9 more weeks to go!!

I Blame the Swiss!

2010-02-25T12:41:00.000-08:00

Was there some kind of paper crisis in Switzerland in 1921?
Today I started on the League of Nations documents...or rather the reports by the Zemgor representative in Geneva. At first they were typed on good quality paper but as time went on the quality deteriorated and by the time I got to the end of the file they were on terrible transparent paper which had a blue tinge and the ink was also blue. It was so difficult to get decent photographs! Even trying to read them was difficult. Urghh!
Although progress has been slow this week I have managed to get through the files and tomorrow will move onto the next series. The worst part has been photographing the documents. It is such a repetitive set of motions that my back and shoulder have really been complaining today. Each set of documents have taken 2 hours to photograph and by the time I finished tonight I was in agony. I thought I would have to sleep on the floor tonight to straighten my back out! However a quick curry and a beer has helped enormously!

Leeds leads!

2010-02-24T13:47:00.000-08:00

It has been a great start to my new temporary life in Leeds. Yesterday was my first full day in the archive but even before I got there things were looking good. I caught the bus just after 8.00 a.m. and it was standing room only but I wasn't too bothered as it is only a 10-15 minute drive to the centre. I was standing beside a spotty, hoodie wearing young man - the kind the Daily Mail gets all worked up about. Anyway, he tapped me on the elbow and tried to give me his seat. I thanked him but said I was ok. He was quite insistant! I have never had said spotty, hoodie types offer me a seat in Aberdeen, so Leeds 1-Aberdeen 0!
When I got off the bus I did manage to slip on the one small piece of ice on the Headrow but I succeeded in returning to a vertical position without too much difficulty and no damage done.
I am still working through the financial documents that I started in January and it is proving very time consuming. Yesterday I only managed to get through 2 files and today was even slower. Still, I hope to finish them tomorrow or Friday at the latest and move on to something more exciting. I think The League of Nations papers might be fun!
The excitement yesterday was a fire alarm just as I wanted to leave the library to go for lunch. I don't know where the supposed fire was but they closed the library doors and wouldn't let us leave! In fact they asked us to move back as we were blocking the fire doors!!!! Some people found an alternative exit but the staff didn't seem bothered that many of us were still there and there was no attempt to clear the library!
There was to be a strike tomorrow to protest staff cuts. I told Richard (archivist) that I wouldn't cross the picket line but it turns out that they called it off this afternoon. There are two more planned for next week so I will have to wait and see if they go ahead. I have plenty of translations to work through if I can't go in but it will eat into my time here.
I just missed a bus this evening and had to wait 40 minutes for the next one. Now that I know when they leave I can be more prepared to leave the archive on time.

One more inhabitant in Leeds

2010-02-22T07:20:00.000-08:00

Well, I've done it! I have upped sticks and moved to Leeds to finish my research. After three months of travelling down for a week in the archives I decided I didn't want to spend the next 10months doing that so I have rented a room for the next 3 months and will hopefully get it all done in that time and be able to move back home once and for all!
When I was here in January I answered an ad on Gumtree for renting a room in a house. I had contemplated sharing with some undergrads near the University but when I thought about it seriously, I really wasn't sure I could share with 5-6 other students with only one bathroom! I therefore went for a room further out of the centre of the city.
The house is owned by James and Matt in New Farnley. It is a bus ride from the centre and I will be able to walk up to Uni from there. I arrived on the train last night after a delay in Edinburgh (the police were called to remove a passenger!) and another in York (waiting for a crew change). James and Matt picked me up and took me to the house then cooked me dinner while I settled in. We spent the evening chatting and getting to know each other. I think we will get on just fine.
Today I had a slow start. I went to the local Co-op to stock up on some food before heading into town to figure out the busses and go to Argos for a pillow and duvet. I didn't want to pack them from home as I would have had to take another suitcase and I was already laden down!
There had been a lot of snow yesterday but it was a nice day today and it is starting to thaw. People are very friendly and many said hello or even stopped to speak. I missed the first bus because an old guy had stopped to say how icy the pavements were.
Tomorrow I will head in to the archives and start work properly. I am here for three weeks in the first instance so that should give me time to figure out a work schedule which will get me through the work before the beginning of May.

The January Archive Ferret

2010-01-25T14:29:00.000-08:00

January, and once again it is time for a trip to the archive.
Last week was spent invigilating exams in order to pay for this trip. Now I am once again in Leeds, ferreting around in the Dead Russian Guys' Archive.
As I began photographing today Richard pointed out I may actually be duplicating my efforts and indeed it seems I am. The Dead Russian Guys had one set of archives ready to send to Prague and one to keep for themselves in Paris (more extensive). I have photographed the ones due to be sent to Prague and am half way through the French ones but they may actually be the same files. I am left with the decision of whether to continue as I planned (and possibly duplicate my photos) or rely on the ones due for the Prague archive. The dilemma lies in whether the one archive is more complete than the other. It will probably take a couple of days to photograph the rest of these documents but I could possibly get more benefit from moving on through the archive. At the moment I am moving on but am holding onto the duplicate files incase I have some time this week to devote to them. Complicated!Richard is very helpful and allows me to call up loads of files at a time giving me the tme to decide such complicated questions!.
I am staying in the Merrion Best Western again and it is quite comfortable. The room is small but looks like it has been recently decorated and the resaturant is reasonably priced. The food is actually very good and the service is pleasant (though slow at times)

Memory loss and snow.

2009-12-17T13:45:00.000-08:00

I managed to get through one more box this morning before I ran out of memory on the camera. I have used up 10 GB so far and wondered if I should get some more. However, as much as I wanted to get through as many boxes as possible, I figured I would never use that amount of memory again so I decided to continue going through the boxes and listing the contents for reference.
By the time I left the archive it was after 5.00. Earlier than normal but I had had enough for the day. It had started to snow and was really quite slippy underfoot. I had thought I would head into the centre and get something to eat but in the end I just went back to the hotel.
For the second day in a row I found my room had not been serviced. I called reception again to complain and they were apologetic but I was still annoyed. I was too tired to make too much fuss though. How British!!
I ate in the restaurant downstairs again and then headed back to my room. I just want to go home now.
It took hours to get a connection to the internet which didn't improve my mood! I don't know what the problem was but it would not connect.
Hopefully the snow won't delay travel tomorrow and I will be home for the weekend. Can't wait!

Bureacrats and Bean Counters

2009-12-16T13:40:00.000-08:00

Another day in the archives with my Dead Russian Guys. As the week progresses and I photograph more and more of their documents my back slowly begins to rebel. At first it is a twinge and gradually it grows to a steady stabbing pain and eventually I have to give in.
These guys just produced so much paper! This is great in one respect as I have so much evidence to go on. On the other hand they must be responsible for significant deforestation! I have been looking at the minutes of their meetings this week and it is clear they liked to talk! Almost every day in the early years! Not only talk, but numbers too! If they could find a column of numbers to add up they were seriously happy! Bureaucrats and bean counters, every one of them!
I don’t mind when they use decent paper but a lot of the time, especially their financial reports and accounts are on poor quality paper similar to tracing paper. It is flimsy and difficult to photograph. Not only because it is transparent but it is invariably folded, scrunched up or torn making it more difficult to get a legible picture I can work with. Most of the boxes this week contain 50-60 files, each one representing a meeting with attached reports, decisions or accounts. Sometimes the minutes are only a couple of pages which are easy to photograph and move on to the next one. Even the added reports are generally not too difficult as long as the pages turn easily. The accounts are always a problem.
All the documents have been folded along the margin and sewn into a paper folder. Not a great deal of care has been taken to ensure that words and numbers are left out of the fold and therefore able to be read without trying to tear the document out of the folder! This is generally frowned upon by archivists!
I bought two more memory sticks for the camera today and will probably use them all up by tomorrow. Even if I cut my dates down from 1930 to 1925 there is a mountain of paperwork to get through. Hopefully once I get through all the minutes of meeting it will begin to get easier...I doubt it! Even with all these difficulties I still love these guys. Not only were they bureaucrats and bean counters they were capable humanitarians who provided a valuable service to vulnerable refugees over a long period of time.
This is my favourite story at the moment. The local representative in each refugee location was responsible for the welfare of the refugees and did their best to help in any circumstance. One of their duties was to make sure there was material to make coffins in the event of a death in the refugee camp. In Gallipoli on one occasion a refugee came to the office saying there were no materials to be had to make a coffin for a recently deceased refugee in the camp. What could the representative do? He ordered the wall between his office and his living quarters to be taken down and used to make the coffin. That is why I love these guys. They used what they had and did what they could to alleviate the suffering of fellow Russians in desperate situations.
On another note, the food in the hotel is fantastic. I have chosen something different every evening and it has all been great. I love being able to get in after a hard day, go down to the restaurant and have wonderful food placed in front of me. This happens at home of course but here I don’t even have to do the washing up!

Trains and Rain

2009-12-14T13:45:00.000-08:00

Stonehaven railway station on a cold winter morning seems to be an integral part of my life this last year. 2008-09 was travelling to and from Glasgow and now the destination is Leeds. At 7.00 a.m the destination is not important. Standing waiting for a train is unpleasant in this weather!
There were no delays and the journey went well. I arrived in Leeds on time and walked up t the hotel. This is my first stay in the Best Western Merrion hotel and I have to say it is much better than the Discovery Inn. The room is small and the bath is not designed for anyone over 5 foot tall but there is no added fungus on the wall, the radiator works and there is a remote control for the tv.
I arrived at the University just after 2.00 to find it is winter graduation week. Seeing all those proud parents and robe-wearing graduands is always a delight.
I feel like a well known visitor now as all the staff in the archive recognised and welcomed me back. I got myself organised and ordered up the files I wanted to look at. I had identified 11 files in teh catalogue I wanted to see this week so ordered the first four. Richard, teh archivist, brought out one box and said that it was one of 19 boxes in file number 123. But that was OK as all the other files I wanted only contained 1 box. Oh whoopie! Instead of the 11 boxes I thought I would be looking through I now have to try to get through 29! Anyone want to take bets on the likelihood of complete success this week? Let me put it this way: I managed to photograph only 1 of said 19 boxes today...
As much as I love my dead Russian guys, I do worry that they are responsible for the deforestation of the planet. So much paperwork generated by a cause that historians have overlooked as a failure in the past. The beauty of this project is that they not only talked the talk, but also walked the walk. I am every day amazed at their achievements in their practical work to ease the plight of the post-revolutionary Russian refugees in Constantinople and, later, in Western Europe.
I left the archive around 6.30 and it was poring with rain. I remember grabbing my umbrella this morning with my backpack but it somehow didn't manage to leave the house with me. I was therefore very, very wet by the time I returned to the hotel. The duty manager looked at me then looked at the receptionist and said, 'I think we may need some towels down here.' I thought he was being a bit snippy so I retorted, 'I will try not to drip too much on you're carpet. If you could arrange some milder weather for tommorrow it would be appreciated.'
After a quick shower I headed down for dinner of Moules marinieres and linguine with meatballs. Very nice.
And now, in the words of a very old children's programme...Andy and Teddy say time for bed!
...

Better Late than Never

2009-12-12T13:28:00.000-08:00

I couldn't get an internet connection on the way home from the archive trip so I typed my entry into Word with the intention of uploading it when I gor home. However, I was so releaved to get home that I for got to do it. Here it is now. Just in time for my next visit next week.

What can I say? There can only be so much that can go wrong in a week. Well, possibly. But I haven’t reached that limit yet. I double and triple checked I had everything packed on Thursday morning before setting out for the archive. Admittedly, I did try to use my library card to access the lift instead of my room card but that was just a momentary slip, surely?
On City Square just as I was leaving the hotel there were several people dressed in superhero costumes looking like they would rather be somewhere else. Maybe it was their turn to have a bad day. They were advertising Kleenex tissues for avoiding Swine flu!
It was dry today but all up the street were the slaughtered remains of umbrellas from yesterday’s wind! Poor twisted and tangled remains that were just waiting for the right moment to turn into Zombie Umbrellas. I wonder if anyone has written the script for that movie?
Things were going great. I was getting on with the photographing and was about to start on another file when I tried to insert one of the new memory sticks I bought on Wednesday. Nope. It wasn’t going to work. I tried the other one. Nope. Not that one either! I was going to have to go back to Boots and get them exchanged. Where was the receipt? Oh yes. I had decided to take it out of my handbag and it was back at the hotel!!!.
OK. Deep breaths. What if there was a photo shop nearer the University? I could buy new sticks and return the others to Boots tomorrow. That would be a good idea and would save me the walk down to the hotel again. Of course that would be too easy. Back to the hotel. Back to Boots – where I insisted the assistant tried out the replacement sticks in my camera before I bought them! He wasn’t happy about it but I think I looked like I was about to commit murder and he was the nearest target!
I must have really pissed of a petty bureaucratic demi-daemon from Hades this week. Seriously, he has it in for me!
Thank goodness I discovered the Thai Edge. In its advertising blurb it states it is ‘arguably one of the best Thai restaurants in Britain’ and has been voted in the top 10 Asian restaurants by the Times and the Independent. For the past 7 years it has held an AA rosette. The service and the food are fantastic and not expensive. It seems to be really popular with a wide range of people too. I will definitely be eating there regularly on my trips to Leeds.
Friday. Last day in the archives. I knew I was going to be short on time to finish the last of the files I wanted but would give it my best shot. I almost made it too. Unfortunately the battery let me down again and I didn’t have time to recharge it. The last 39 documents will have to wait until the next trip.
It has been a challenging week but hopefully the photos will be OK and I can work my way through them in the next few weeks. The Special Collections at Leeds Uni is a great place to work and the staff really helpful and friendly. Sure beats Russian archives and their obligatory ‘Dmitri’ who is permanently bad tempered!
Well, I have survived another trip away from the family hearth but it will be good to get home. The train is horrendously crowded but no delays (so far). I am looking forward to one of Sean’s special risottos tonight and a chilled glass of wine...and a warm, comfortable bed! It’s not much for a weary, technologically-outwitted traveller to hope for!
Until the next travel adventure....

The daemon continues his work

2009-11-27T15:49:00.001-08:00

What can I say? There can only be so much that can go wrong in a week. Well, possibly. But I haven’t reached that limit yet. I double and triple checked I had everything packed 0n Thursday morning before setting out for the archive. Admittedly, I did try to use my library card to access the lift instead of my room card but that was just a momentary slip, surely?
On City Square just as I was leaving the hotel there were several people dressed in superhero costumes looking like they would rather be somewhere else. Maybe it was their turn to have a bad day. They were advertising Kleenex tissues and avoiding Swine flu!
It was dry today but all up the street were the slaughtered remains of umbrellas from yesterday’s wind! Poor twisted and tangled remains that were just waiting for the right moment to turn into Zombie Umbrellas. I wonder if anyone has written the script for that movie?
Things were going great. I was getting on with the photographing and was about to start on another file when I tried to insert one of the new memory sticks I bought on Wednesday. Nope. It wasn’t going to work. I tried the other one. Nope. Not that one either! I was going to have to go back to Boots and get them exchanged. Where was the receipt? Oh yes. I decided to take it out of my handbag and it was back at the hotel!!!.
OK. Deep breaths. What if there was a photo shop nearer the University? I could buy new sticks and return the others to Boots tomorrow. That would be a good idea and would save me the walk down to the hotel again. Of course that would be too easy. Back to the hotel. Back to Boots – where I insisted the assistant tried out the replacement sticks in my camera before I bought them! He wasn’t happy about it but I think I looked like I was about to commit murder and he was the nearest target!
I must have really pissed of a petty bureaucratic demi-daemon from Hades this week. Seriously, he has it in for me!
Thank goodness I discovered the Thai Edge. In its advertising blurb it states it is ‘arguably one of the best Thai restaurants in Britain’ and has been voted in the top 10 Asian restaurants by the Times and the Independent. For the past 7 years it has held an AA rosette. The service and the food are fantastic and not expensive. It seems to be really popular with a wide range of people too. I will definitely be eating there regularly on my trips to Leeds.
Friday. Last day in the archives. I knew I was going to be short on time to finish the last of the files I wanted but would give it my best shot. I almost made it too. Unfortunately the battery let me down again and I didn’t have time to recharge it. The last 39 documents will have to wait until the next trip.
It has been a challenging week but hopefully the photos will be OK and I can work my way through them in the next few weeks. The Special Collections at Leeds Uni is a great place to work and the staff really helpful and friendly. Sure beats Russian archives and their obligatory ‘Dmitri’ who is permanently bad tempered!
Well, I have survived another trip away from the family hearth but it will be good to get home. The train is horrendously crowded but no delays (so far). I am looking forward to one of Sean’s special risottos tonight and a chilled glass of wine...and a warm, comfortable bed! It’s not much for a weary, technologically-outwitted traveller to hope for!
Until the next travel adventure....

Crap Crappy Crappity Crapness

2009-11-25T13:07:00.000-08:00

Some days are best forgotten. They simply should not exist. This is one of them. There is something about Wednesdays on archive trips that get me down and this is no exception.
First off, I didn't sleep as Tiny Bomber (aka No. 1 daughter) decided to cross the road last night without looking both ways. Thankfully the car that hit her wasn't going fast and she is OK but being miles away and being told not to worry doesn't help that much. Anyway, Mums are meant to worry, it's our job.
Breakfast this morning was strangely like being on the Marie Celeste. Not a soul in sight but everything was laid out for the buffet breakfast. I thought the croissants loked nice...mistake! French bakers were in mourning for these things bearing the name of croissant but not resembling them in any other way. I think they were probably used by the students in the 1968 Paris demonstrations as misiles against the gendarmes.
I definately wasn't going to forget the battery charger after yesterday's fiasco, so with my bag packed I set out to the shopping centre to buy another memory stick for the camera. I figured it would be useful and would mean that I wouldn't run out of memory before the end of the week. I am photographing so many documents!
Things were looking up. I even managed to find the correct short cut to the University! But, alas, it couldn't last.
Unpacking my bag in the archive I realised there was no camera battery. It must have fallen out of the charger as I was packing it! I couldn't believe it! After all my careful preperations! Crap Crappy Crappity Crapdoodle Crapness!
I thought about going straight back to the hotel but decided instead to order up the rest of the files I wanted to look at and go through them to see what was there before walking all the way back into the centre of Leeds.
I got back to the hotel about 3p.m and called Tiny Bomber. She had had a good night's rest and said she was fine. The battery was lying on the bed so. with it safely in my bag, I headed back up the hill to the archive! It was really wet and windy and everyone's umbrellas were being blown inside out. What a day!
I managed to get some more photos taken before the archive closed at 7p.m. then headed back into the centre for something to eat.
I decided on the Thai Edge restaurant. This proved to be the best decision of the day. It was a little oasis of serenity and excellent cuisine in my crapola day. I will definitely be going back there but I hope tomorrow is a better day all round than today.
Oh, and by the way, putting the dayglo digital clock under the bed didn't help. It just made the bed look nuclear powered.

The Camera Cannae Take it, Cap'n!

2009-11-24T10:32:00.000-08:00

It was a sleepless night as the bed isn't comfortable and the clock/phone on the bedside cabinet gives out a brilliant green glow from its digital display! I might have to cover it with something tonight or hide it under the bed!
I decided to take a 'short cut' to Uni today. Given my famous propensity to head off in the wrong direction,this could only end in tears! It only took an extra half an hour!
As I had forgotten to pack my Russian dictionary I also had to stop off in the local Blackwells. That accomplished, I headed across the road to the archive. The file I was working on was huge so I decided to get right to it and start photographing. All wen well until the battery level showed empty. I only had a few pages to go so I carried on until the camera, with faultless timing, decided to switch itself of just as I was about to photograph the very last page. No amount of coaxing could persuade it to switch back on for the necessary 3 seconds. I had left the charger in the hotel so I will have to finish it tomorrow.
Therre was only one thing to do. Order up another couple of files and go for lunch. There is actually a Marks and Spencers exhibition on in the main foyer of the Parkinson BUilding! I might take a stroll through it tomorrow (couldn't be bothered today as I was grumpy about the camera!) I also have a sore back from standing taking photographs at a table that is a couple of centimetres too low! All I wanted to do was sit and have some lunch.
Having seen the size of the next two files I think I will have to find a photo shop tomorrow morning to buy more memory sticks. After these there are another 4 files I want to see before I go home. I will definitely remember the charger tomorrow as well!
I wanted to try a Thai restaurant tonight but it wasn't open when I went past so I stopped in Casa Mia again. Pizza tonight and a couple of well earned beers! I also wandered through the German market and will certainly go back before I leave. An interesting stall with hats needs further investigation!

Back to Leeds, Back to Reality.

2009-11-23T12:54:00.000-08:00

Well it is almost 2 years since that depressing trip to the archives that made me realise my Russian wasn't good enough to continue with my research. I wish I could say my Russian is perfect now but it will still be a long slow process through the documents but the plan is to photograph as much as possible and take it back home to work through.
The trip down was uneventful. No missed connections in Edinburgh and a beautiful sunny day. Slightly duller in Leeds but dry at least. I went to check into the hotel first and as soon as I approached the desk the receptionist asked if I was with the Philosophical and Religious Studies Group. Obviously being a part of the Dept. of Divinity, History and Philosophy marks you out! I politely declined to be either philosophical or divine and checked in as the lone historical relic! It is the same hotel I stayed in before...nothing spectacular, but it is cheap! I guess that accounts for the large damp patch on the roof and wall with the accompanying growth of mould! It hasn't moved or tried to engage me in conversation so I am assuming it is harmless!
As I walked up to the University I noticed a German Christmas market in the centre. I will try to pop into it on the way home tomorrow. It looked festive but I can't guarantee its authentic Germanness yet. I will let you know....
It was good to be back in the archives. The staff are friendly and helpful and it is a nice, bright place to work. I ordered up my first two files and set to work. I managed to photograph the first file but the second is bigger and will need more time to sort through so I have left it for tomorrow. I had identified 8 files that I wanted to work through this week which doesn't seem like a lot but I was sure they would have a lot in them. Anyway, when Richard (archivist) brought out the boxes he very helpfully pointed out about a dozen more files that may actually be more inclusive of the information I am after....it is going to be a busy week!
I stopped off at Casa Mia, a restaurant I often go to when I am in Leeds. It still amazes me though that a woman dining alone creates such a stir. 'Yes, I want a table for one. No, I am not expecting anyone to join me.'
I had the spaghetti al frutti di mare, which was really good although there was ham in it which was slightly confusing. I wasn't aware that pigs were considered seafood. Maybe we are lumbered with land locked pigs in Scotland and they have swimming pigs in the Mediterranean!
I typed up some notes when I got back to the hotel and I am now enjoying a beer (served in a coffee mug) and some crisps before signing off for the night.

Happy Easter!

2009-04-11T23:54:00.000-07:00

This is my last full day in St Petersburg and, as much as I love this city, I will be glad to get home. Yesterday I didn't even leave the hotel because I was too tired to think about walking anywhere or seeing anything. At least today I have made it into the internet cafe on Nevsky Prospekt.
The weather has been colder and ice was back on the Neva but it is a sunny 7 degrees today...well not that sunny really but it is dry at the moment! I might have something to eat after this then go down to the Artists graveyard as I didn't get any photos last time I was here. I am a bit of a graveyard fan! Especially if they have interesting headstones, and this one certainly does. It is very small and is very close to a metro station so I may just about manage to walk that far!
I am looking forward to getting home tomorrow but may need to sleep for a week! It will be sheer luxury sleeping in my own bed for more than 2 nights at a time as it has been since September!

Of Dogs and Doggy Things.

2009-04-09T02:54:00.001-07:00

I was so tired yesterday I went back to the hotel in the middle of the afternoon and slept for 4 hours! As I am feeling 'Dog-tired' I thought I would continue in a doggy theme with the blog today!
When I was last in St Petersburg there were a lot of dogs wandering around the streets. There is the same problem in Moscow, only on a greater scale. During the economic disaster in the mid-90s people couldn't afford to keep pets and simply abandonned them to their own devices, hence large populations of stray dogs now. Mostly they don't bother anyone but they can be quite wild. Anyway, I was just thinking the city must have had a clean up of homeless dogs as there were none to be seen anywhere. The only one I had seen was in the army barracks just round the corner from the hotel and, while it looks pretty mangy, it seems to be their guard dog!
There is a scientific Institute on Mayakovsky Street with a garden in front where I used to see a pack of these strays every day as I went to the language school but there had been none there this time. I guess the weather is only now starting to improve and suddenly the dogs have reappeared. I have no idea where they went for the winter but they are back in the garden today en masse! It must be a pretty small gene pool as they all look the same! Part Alsatian, part Rotweiller!
I am also noticing that people are starting to own dogs again. Infact it seems to be a fashion accessory! Mostly they are small breeds and there is the tendency among the owners to dress them up in the most outrageous clothes! There is a shop I pass everyday that sells doggy clothes and accessories and it is quite disturbing! One day on Arts Square as I was photographing the statue of Puskin I felt something rub against my leg. I looked down and saw a Yorkshire terrier dressed in a blue T-shirt and jeans! I really thought I had had too much vodka and did a double take! There are doggy skirts and bonnets too. Honest! I have not been on the vodka!
I still haven't seen myself on TV and I am not entirely sure which channel it will be on but there seems to a regular 'ask the people' slot on 100tv every evening at 8pm. Perhaps tonight...

Of Libraries, Hats and Fame.

2009-04-08T01:43:00.000-07:00

I had a pleasant walk down Nevsky Prospekt yesterday and had some lunch in the Coffee House before wandering through Gostiny Dvor. I succumbed to temptation and bought myself a Russian hat! Russians know how to wear hats and therefore have my undying respect. Westerners generally do not give head gear its due respect. It is a flaw in our character that I constantly strive against. My new hat has attitude. It positively demands the cold to do its worst! 'Come on snow, ice and frost if you think you are hard enough!'
I met up with the others at 3.30 and we were taken on a tour of the National Library, known locally as Publichka. It was an interesting tour but was designed for the general public and the tour guide really wasn't sure about specific research questions. Still, they have Voltaire's complete library there which was bought by Catherine the Great and the old parts still look like a real old fashioned library.
The group were keen to commence (or recommence) the drinking so I took my leave as I was feeling tired and needed to get some revision done before my next class.
Now, I know I am prone to unusual events happening around me but what happened last night was in a whole different league! There I was, minding my own business and wishing I didn't have quite so far to walk from the metro to the hotel when I suddenly discovered a microphone under my nose and a camera in my face! What, the intrepid reporter wanted to know, did I think about the quality of Russian products? Now, I am thinking, there is so much potential for a diplomatic incident here. What is the best way to proceed?! I decided on the tactful and diplomatic course if for no other reason than I was really tired and couldn't be bothered with the hassle!! Actually I probably looked like a rabbit caught in the headlights and jabbered like an idiot!
I would like to pretend that I covered myself in glory and conducted the entire interview in Russian...alas, not! But the reporter wasn't to be put off by such trivialities and spoke in English!! So, as a result I am now a minor celebrity...at least in the language school!
I am really begining to tire now and wish I was home. Two more days of classes and two free days to go. I leave on Monday but unfortunately not until the evening. They don't let you into the airport here until your flight is announced, usually and hour before departure so I will have to find something to do for the day that is reasonable close to the hotel. The Aurora and Finland Station are close by and therefore don't involve long walks or I may just sit in the hotel with a coffee and read a book. Anyway, between now and then I would quite like to have a quiet, incident free time!

Of Archives and Bureaucracy

2009-04-07T01:13:00.000-07:00

I have spent the last couple of days with the archive tour group that came up from Moscow. I met up with them on Sunday at the Marble Palace where a local History professor did a quick tour covering the revolution. I didscovered where that British Embassy was housed at that time, which is useful to know. I do feel it helps to know where things are in relation to other things as it can give a better understanding of how events happened. We then decamped to a cafe to warm up with some tea and coffee (It was a bitterly cold day, but dry at least!) Tony and I stayed on to have something to eat there but everyone else headed of to do their own thing.
I arranged to meet up with the group at their hotel the following morning before heading back to the hotel on the metro. They are staying at the Hotel Moskva which is so much better than the crappy place we stayed in Moscow when I did the tour last year! RGIA was the destination so of we went on the metro. It has just opened in a brand new building which was a real change from the normal archives here. It has fantastic facilities, computerised catalogues, state-of-the-art scanning facilities etc. A really brilliant place to work we all thought. Then we tried to register! Only Brendan had a letter of recommendation with him so he was the only one they would allow to register but that fell through when he didn't have a photo! And he was only allowed to put one topic of interest down on the application form. I can see I will have to give it some thought before I commit to anything specific. I guess the trick is to make it as broad as possible! I wonder if they would accept 'Russian History' as the theme!!?
So even with all the modern facilities remnants of old style bureaucracy remain! Still, compared to the old Senate building where they used to be kept it is a palace. They showed us a film of the transfer of archives, which was, surprisingly, completed in only one day with 1700 trips in lorries.
As none of us were going to get to work there we headed of to find some bookshops over in the University area. It was a horrible, wet, cold day so walking was not very pleasant but Tony and I got to several bookshops and I was lucky enough to pick up 5 books on the emmigration.
At 6pm we met everyone again at the European University of St Petersburg where we had a talk about post grad courses there. They seem to have a great programme of courses for overseas students taught in English. Boris had then arranged a Georgian banquet for us at a local restaurant. There was so much food! I thought I would explode! Just when you thought everything had been brought to the table the waitresses would arrive with more food! And of course there was vodka and toasts! I knew I had to walk back to the hotel so I stuck to the wine. I didn't think it would be a good idea to stagger over Liteiny Bridge and fall into the Neva!!!
The hotel is so quiet now that the kids have gone. It is such a luxury to get a good night's sleep! And I was able to have a lie-in this morning as I am not meeting the group until this afternoon. We are getting a tour of the National Library which is just beside Gostiny Dvor, the enormous market. I have spotted a couple of hats there an I may be tempted to pop back in to get them!

Of Celebrations and Obstacles

2009-04-04T23:49:00.000-07:00

Suddenly I am half way through my stay in this wonderful city. I am torn between wanting it to last longer and getting home. Between Glasgow and here I seem to have been travelling forever and I really just want to curl up on my own sofa for more than a couple of nights at a time! However, I will be so sad to say goodbye to 'Peter' again.
Either The Pink Terrorists have departed or they were on their very best behaviour last night. Not a squeak! Celebrations! Obviously the gymnasts are much more serious and in bed early. I noticed an Italian team this morning as well as the others. Some of them have Beijing patches on their tracksuits so I am assuming they are the real deal and this is a major competition. Haven't seen TeamGB yet!
As it is Sunday morning everything is very quiet here. I will meet up with Tony and the archive tour people later today and we are going on a walking tour along the Embankment. Until then I am passing the time in CafeMax (Internet cafe) and probably have coffee and a muffin or two in Coffee House.
As I have mentioned in other posts the traffic here is something to bedold but I thought I would also add that it is not the only daily obstacle that needs to be carefully, yet nonchalently, negotiated! For a start, the pavements have not been flat since they were laid (doubtful if they were even flat then!) They are very uneven and full of potholes to trip up the unwary. If that is not enough, we have had snow and icy conditions here some mornings and gritting is not considered necessary. I have a very stout pair of walking boots but most young women here wear impossibly high stillettos and I have developed great respect for their ability to stay upright on icy, pot-holed pavements (and avoiding the tram lines as they cross the street!)
This morning I discovered yet another obstacle. Pavement cleaners with power hoses! These come in two forms. There is the two-man version where one operates the hose and the other sweeps the resulting mud into the street and the large truck that drives onto the pavement and use even larger hoses to blast pavements and lamp post and...well, generally anything they decide needs cleaning. I have to stress the size of these trucks. They are not the small Green Machines they push along the centre of Aberdeen to clean up the pavements, or even the chewing gum cleaners they brought in a couple of years back. These are like smaller versions of petrol tankers and not much smaller at that! Of course, the pavements on Nevsky Prospect and the width of a small street but I still prefer to think that pavements are for pedestrians and streets are for the traffic! These monsters just drive onto the pavement and start blasting away at the accumulated dirt and you had better get out of the way if you don't want a soaking! It is impossible to avoid a few splashes as these things are so powerful spray is sent in all directions when they get started.
I realized early on that personal responsibility is the byword here. If you get wet, knocked down, fall over, have falling masonary drop on your head there is no point looking for one of those personal injury lawyers here! You are absolutely responsible for your own safety out there. Once I realized that, it is really no more dangerous than any other place.

An Altercation with the Local Constabulary.

2009-04-04T01:50:00.000-07:00

I ended up at the Russian Museum yesterday and spent a wonderful afternoon wandering around the exhibitions. It is much smaller than the Hermitage and easier to get around. They have some amazing artworks there and I discovered loads of Russian artists I had never heard of. There was also a special folk art exhibition and one about american artists of Russian descent. I did manage to get myself into a bit of a loop and went round the American artist's exhibition 3 times before finding the right exit! I obviously have an aura of 'shouldn't be allowed out on her own' as several female members of staff felt obliged to keep pointing me in the right direction which was invariable the opposite of the one I was headed in!
It was after 5pm when I left there and the weather had improved although it was still very cold. I went to my usual little bistro before heading back to the hotel. And this is where the day began to get really interesting!
I was just going in through the inner doors of the metro when I saw a young man charging towards me. He swerved past me and through the door but the cop behind him wasn't able to avoid me and sent me spinning! I am not sure it was the most graceful pirouette and it most certainly wasn't the best landing...on my a$$! However, I have to say the cop did not get off so lightly. He riccocheted off me into the door frame making a deep impression on his face!(They make the doors to last here!) He then continued in hot pursuit. My aura really shone then. I was the target of every concerned babushka for miles around. Bus loads of them seemed to arrive to help me!! They took a lot of persuading that I was actually none the worse for the experience and I eventually managed to get them to agree that I was capable of travelling on my own. I do however suspect that several of them may have followed me home just to make sure!!)Then the cop returned with his target firmly grasped by the collar! He will have a wonderful dent in his head today and an amazing black eye!! I have to admit to feeling quite pleased that I didn't let the side down in an away game....Scottish Tourist:1-Local Constabulary:0!
And I thought it was the little pink ones I had to worry about! Mind you, they really excelled themselves last night. It was nearly 2.00am before I finally got to sleep! Several people were telling them to quieten down but as one group of mini terrorists went to their rooms another emerged and started all over again. As I went down to breakfast this morning I noticed through the open bedroom doors that there were several empty beer bottles. It is a sad reality here that even children are alcoholics. They begin drinking at a young age and they drink every day. It seems normal to them but it is actually incredibly sad. Of course we have similar problems in Scotland but it is different here. What a waste of their lives. I think the life expectation of a Russian man is 50 something.
I have had one lesson already today and am having a break before going back for another this afternoon to make up for the one missed yesterday. After that I will probably just have something to eat and head back to the hotel. I may need to get a couple of hours kip before the noise starts and then I can read a book or something until they settle down. I would ask for a different room but I suspect that they have basically taken over the building! There are several hundred of then, not just a few dozen!!

Of Bottomless Lenin and Hula Hoops

2009-04-03T01:13:00.000-07:00

It snowed last night so it is cold and damp today. A bit like Scotland really with one nice day followed by a crappy day. I managed to get some photos of Lenin yesterday before he was completely covered up. They have decided to hide his bottomlessness from public view until they decide what to do with him. It seems it will cost a lot to repair him and it is understandably not going down well in a city where there is abject poverty that could be alleviated by that money. Watch this space for further developments.
The grim news is that the pink tutus have now been joined by tracksuited mini gymnasts from various countries. My suspicions were first aroused as to this invasion when at breakfast I was faced with several yellow tracksuits bearing the name 'China' on the back, followed by white and red ones from Russia and blue from Kazakhstan. There were even some burgundy ones from Hungary. Am I to have no peace?
I suppose it is an educational experience. I hadn't previously been aware of the array of bags used to carry hula hoops in! There is the basic one, that comes in various colours and resembles a steering wheel cover. Then there are ones with special handles or even extra pockets. What would you put in the pocket of a hula hoop holder? Or why indeed does a hulahoop need a cover? Can they get damaged if not suitably protected?
I am having a day off today as my teacher couldn't get into the city this morning. Traffic problems are awful at the best of times and it was simply impassable today. She offered to come in later but I suggested that we just tag the time onto the end of other classes. So I am free to do touristy things. (What else can I blow up?)
I am thinking either the Hermitage or the Russian Museum...to visit, not blow up! Because the weather is so bad I think an indoor pursuit is better but I really want to get over to Stone Island and Yelagin Island before I leave.

Has the Revolution started?

2009-04-02T02:48:00.000-07:00

Early yesterday morning someone tried to blow up the famous statue of Lenin in front of Finland Station. I walked past it this morning but didn't see the damage. Apparently they put explosives inside and blew his bottom off! I will try to get photos tonight!
Apart from that all seems calm! Well, if you don't count the tutus. Unfortunately, my hopes of them disappearing yesterday did not come to fruition and the little darlings are still running around (maybe not for much longer!) I would complain at reception but it is hard to maintain umbrage when you can't really speak the language!
The weather has improved and it is very Spring like today. There is still lot of ice in the Neva but it is much warmer and the sun is shining. I plan to go to Vladimirskii cathedral today and perhaps Dostoevskii's house. I haven't been to either before but I am finding that my range is getting wider as I now use the metro!

6 Cars, 3 Lanes

2009-04-01T02:10:00.000-07:00

I had forgotten how crazy the drivers are here! It was so much fun watching several cars jostling for a position on the 3 available lanes this morning. And I am once again getting used to crossing the roads St Petersburg style. There is only one rule...Show no fear. If you hesitate you are done for. Once you have seen the chance to cross, go for it. Of course this is a challenge to any self respecting motorist who will then try to kill you but you must not hesitate. That would be fatal. At best you would get very dirty from rolling on the bonnet of a car that has never been washed, at worst you would be dead! This brings me to s sub-clause of the only rule. Don't challenge drivers by making eye contact. I know, my reaction is usually to give them a 'de Nero' look. You know the one where he points to his own eyes with the index and forefingers and then points them at his victim?! Under no circumstances do this in Peter! The option of getting away dirty is then removed!
Showing no fear while acting completely nonchalently is the pinacle to which I aspire! I am in awe of the locals, usually older people under 5 foot in height, who step out without a care in the world. Sheer genius!
The 'no eye contact' rule is also recommended on the metro. I am slowly getting used to this form of torture. This morning I was practically rugby tackled to the floor at the kiosk. When I turned round to see who had so urgently needed to get in front of me it was a little old lady pointedly not making eye contact!
The pink tutus were out in force again last night. I thought it was going to be quiet so I went to bed only to be woken five minutes later by a fireworks display outside my window! There was nothing else to do but to watch it and then put up with the noise as hyped up little sproglets came running and screaming back along the corridor. My only hope was that the fireworks meant that they would be leaving today. Thankfully that appears to be the case as they were all pink and giggly outside the hotel when I left for the morning's traffic and metro entertainment.

This Time it's Cold!

2009-03-31T00:59:00.000-07:00

Well, that 22 weeks in Glasgow flew past and now here I am in St Petersburg pretending I know what I am doing. I guess I have managed to buy myself some internet time so I must have said something right at the desk...and I even got student discount!
It is much colder than the last time I was here and the Neva is still frozen over. In fact there was more ice on it this morning than last night so it was a cold night! My room in the St Petersburg hotel is cosy though, if a tad basic! And the bathroom is tiny. The shower was nice and warm this morning so I won't complain...and I didn't have to queue up with adolescent boys for the privilege either! (Long story regarding communal showers in an even more basic hotel in Moscow!)The only problem with the hotel is that I seem to be on the floor that has been taken over by children's theatre and dance groups! Lots of pink tutus and giggling and, even more infuriating, running up and down the corridor till all hours and then starting again at 7 in the morning! Unfortunately I managed to get caught up with their queue for breakfast so tomorrow, if they are still there, I will have to go either earlier or later.
Lessons start this afternoon and I am looking forward to meeting Maria again. Although I am sure she will despair at my hesitant attampts at conversation!

1 down, 21 to go!

2008-09-27T12:34:00.000-07:00

And so my first week as a peripatetic post grad has ended. Apart from the tedious bureaucratic guff that goes with starting a new term in a new place all is going well. My fellow students are a great bunch and there already seems to be a supportive feeling in the group. I feel strangely confident and am sure I have made the right decision in taking this course. Ask me again at Christmas and see if I still feel like that!
Of course, I feel very tired this weekend but I expected that. Once I actually get into the routine of travel I hope that it will get easier. The bus trip up last night was uncomfortable and stuffy but hopefully that will not be the norm.
I have been trying to find cheap accommodation so as not to outstay my welcome with the girls but so far no luck. I will try the University accommodation office next week but I suspect they will be pretty much out of flats and rooms now term has started. I might also try to phone a couple of cheap hotels to see if I can do a deal as a potential regular customer. It is worth a try anyway.

One foot in front of the other...and remember to breathe!

2008-09-22T11:09:00.000-07:00

I didn't sleep well last night. No particular reason other than a strange bed and new noises. It's funny how you forget how noisy city centre living is. The male choirs outside the window in the middle of the night are probably something to be avoided if at all possible!
It wasn't until I was walking to get the bus to the University that reality began to seep in through the cracks in my carefully constructed fantasy world and I suddenly thought 'What are you doing here!' Deep breathes were needed to reconstruct the fabric of my own little world and then I was OK! Back safe in Jennyland!
After class several of us went for lunch so we got to know each other better. I relly like the PG house where we can lock all those undergrads outside to preserve our dignity. It has even got a fancy name...the Hetherington Research Club! How cool is that?!
Simon and I then went to get registered although neither of us had been 'Faculty Approved' and the person listed as my advisor has apparently been dead for several months! Needless to say we queued for a long time to be told to go away and get approval (with a seance perhaps!)I have been given another advisor so hopefully she will still be in this world when I try to find her tomorrow.
I decided that Georgina and I would have tea at one of the Italian restaurants along the street. It was very nice. Then George was working again at night so it was home to get ready for that.

In Glasgow

2008-09-21T14:31:00.000-07:00

It has been a hectic couple of weeks!
Having made no real progress on the Russian language I decided to take the bull by the horns and apply for the PGDip at Glasgow Uni. Having done that I then had to arrange funding, accommodation and travel. So, after a frantic whirl of activity I am here in Glasgow ready to start the course tomorrow.
The funding was remarkably easy considering the trouble I have had in the past, as was the accommodation (Thank you George and Jo). Travel has been a bit trickier as I plan to stay in Glasgow for three nights only and commute back to Aberdeen between times. However, that too seems to have worked out OK.
Now all I have to do is put one foot in front of the other tomorrow morning in the general direction of the University and remember to keep breathing!

Leeds again...but this time it is war!

2008-09-11T13:09:00.000-07:00

Well I am back in Leeds but I am not delving in the archive this time but attending a conference entitled "Aftermaths of War". It is a small conference looking at Women's movements throughout Europe after the First World War. While everyone else knows exactly what the other speakers are on about I am the obligatory fish out of water! I have to keep explaining that it is not really my topic but still of peripheral interest. Not that women's movements are peripheral, just my involvement at this juncture!
Leeds does continue to pose internet connection problems for me! Not that it is probably the fault of Leeds the city per se but that every time I come here I can't get my laptop to behave and finding a connection proves difficult. I am staying at the Hinsley Hall Conference centre and it is fine although being watched by all the former Bishops of Leeds is a bit daunting (from paintings on the walls and not in person I hasten to add!) The centre is run by the Diocese of Leeds, hence the paintings! (Not some weird fantasy!)
I have also just received an unconditional acceptance to Glasgow University and funding all in one day. (How lucky can a girl get?) I was told that this would be my year as I am a Rat and this is the Year of the Rat so I guess it must be 'A Good Thing'. So, onward and upward!

Adventures in Moscow

2008-04-01T10:29:00.001-07:00

I am off tomorrow for a week in Moscow. This time I will not be travelling alone which will be a nice change. It will be a busy week visiting archives and libraries and hopefully a nice restaurant or two...How many MacDonalds will I have to avoid!?
In some ways it is a relief to have someone else organizing everything but I also feel less in control and unsure of what is going to happen.
Anyway...best foot forward and an early start for Moscow tomorrow and hopefully I will be able to keep everyone posted when I find an internet cafe.

Return to Leeds

2008-01-28T12:09:00.000-08:00

After a quiet weekend at home I am now back in Leeds. At least this week I will be able to take some digital photos in the archive so that I can continue with the translations back in the office.
I am not getting to see much of Leeds. It is a matter of up the hill to the University in the morning and stopping off at a restaurant on the way down the hill to the hotel! So far there seems to be a plethora of Italian restaurants and not much else. I love pasta etc but I really fancy a curry or a burger!
Unfortunately I finished my book on the way down today so I now have nothing to read all week! I will just have to listen to mIpod instead!

Day 3

2008-01-23T12:58:00.001-08:00

Ok. Today has been a bummer! Everyone told me it would get easier and quicker as I progressed with the translations. You are all liars!!!
It has been a really tough day and I am feeling low. Nothing like a good moan to get sympathy and I want sympathy in spadefulls at the moment. I have tried a good meal and lots of wine but it is definately going to take bucket loads of sympathy to lift this mood!
Tomorrow I will spend another day ploughing through another page of unintelligeable Russian and I don't think it is getting any better. A major strategy rethink is on the cards and possibly further copious amounts of wine!

From Leeds to Eternity

2008-01-22T11:42:00.000-08:00

I have arrived in Leeds in the rainy season apparently! There is water everywhere. Thank goodness my room is on the fourth floor of the hotel!
Working in the archive has been a shock to the system and has really brought home how little Russian I know! My poor dictionary is exhausted! It is frustratingly slow but I keep hoping that as the week progresses I will speed up a bit. At this rate I am not going to get through many documents!

Happy New Year!

2008-01-05T15:42:00.000-08:00

Christmas came and went. New Year has passed. A good time was had by all. Then there was the conference which was a resounding success. New friends were made and old acquaintances were not forgot. Here's to 2008. I hope it brings joy and happiness to you all and I look forward to the journey and crossing paths with many people and places.

The Workshop has Landed!

2007-12-10T11:26:00.000-08:00

Workshop day and all went well. I hadn't known what to expect but it's basic premise was to 'sell' the British Library as a research tool. It was all good and plenty of information. These events are always good for meeting people as well.
I tried to get a ticket for the theatre tonight so as I would have something to do but to no avail so I am having drinky poos instead! The things I am driven too!

Once more unto the workshop dear friends!

2007-12-09T08:59:00.000-08:00

Here I am in London again for another workshop...this time at the British Library. This time I have a decent hotel although the room is small. It is at least warm and quiet which is a lot more than can be said for the previous hotel!
I arrived on the early flight so I have spent most of the day in Oxford street which I must say was not as crowded as I thought it would be. There was a steel band playing christmas songs which was lovely (and lively!) They were collecting on behalf of the NSPCC so after I had enjoyed listening I gave a donation. It certainly brightened up a dull wet day.
I indulged in some retail therapy as well! Surprise, surprise! I bought (another) hat and (another) handbag.
Back at the hotel I found the internet conection and the bar which is where I am going to retreat to now!
Tomorrow is the workshop so I will see how that goes. Hopefully I will get something out of it.

Of Archives and Workshops

2007-11-24T05:59:00.000-08:00

My trip to Kew went very fast but I think I got a lot out of it. I have just put the photos on the computer and most of the documents are readable so that is a relief! Now I will have to plough through them to see what is relevant...hopefully lots!
The sleeper train seemed a good idea at the time I booked it but it was long and cold. SO cold on the way to Glasgow that the steward let us use the beds to try to keep warm under the blankets! Not much sleep to be had.
The archives training workshop was great. All the papers were interesting and informative although quite depressing hearing tales of how difficult Russian archives and archivists can be! Hopefully I will get a place on the Moscow trip next Easter and that will be a gentler introduction to the big ones than going on my own.

London, Baby!

2007-11-20T13:53:00.001-08:00

Well, I made it to the Big Smoke and am now sitting on a very expensive internet connection in the hotel. How come it is so difficult to get a connection in the capital city?
I have spent two days in the National archives at Kew and am steadily ploughing my way through the material, although I don't think I have enough time on this trip to finish it all. I started photographing the material today which is faster than trying to write it all down but I still have to look through all the hand written stuff to see if it is relevant and boy did those Foreign Office guys have bad writing skills!
Tomorrow is my last day so hopefully I will manage to get through a lot more before I leave. Then it is off to Glasgow for the Archives workshop. I might even get time to write the paper I am presenting before I get there!

The Journey Begins

2007-11-16T14:31:00.000-08:00

And so the tale begins. I am off to London on Sunday to have a delve in the archives at Kew and my blog will keep a running commentary on my trips away from the family hearth and possibly even some from the homeland.