Memory loss and snow.

I managed to get through one more box this morning before I ran out of memory on the camera. I have used up 10 GB so far and wondered if I should get some more. However, as much as I wanted to get through as many boxes as possible, I figured I would never use that amount of memory again so I decided to continue going through the boxes and listing the contents for reference.
By the time I left the archive it was after 5.00. Earlier than normal but I had had enough for the day. It had started to snow and was really quite slippy underfoot. I had thought I would head into the centre and get something to eat but in the end I just went back to the hotel.
For the second day in a row I found my room had not been serviced. I called reception again to complain and they were apologetic but I was still annoyed. I was too tired to make too much fuss though. How British!!
I ate in the restaurant downstairs again and then headed back to my room. I just want to go home now.
It took hours to get a connection to the internet which didn't improve my mood! I don't know what the problem was but it would not connect.
Hopefully the snow won't delay travel tomorrow and I will be home for the weekend. Can't wait!

Bureacrats and Bean Counters

Another day in the archives with my Dead Russian Guys. As the week progresses and I photograph more and more of their documents my back slowly begins to rebel. At first it is a twinge and gradually it grows to a steady stabbing pain and eventually I have to give in.
These guys just produced so much paper! This is great in one respect as I have so much evidence to go on. On the other hand they must be responsible for significant deforestation! I have been looking at the minutes of their meetings this week and it is clear they liked to talk! Almost every day in the early years! Not only talk, but numbers too! If they could find a column of numbers to add up they were seriously happy! Bureaucrats and bean counters, every one of them!
I don’t mind when they use decent paper but a lot of the time, especially their financial reports and accounts are on poor quality paper similar to tracing paper. It is flimsy and difficult to photograph. Not only because it is transparent but it is invariably folded, scrunched up or torn making it more difficult to get a legible picture I can work with. Most of the boxes this week contain 50-60 files, each one representing a meeting with attached reports, decisions or accounts. Sometimes the minutes are only a couple of pages which are easy to photograph and move on to the next one. Even the added reports are generally not too difficult as long as the pages turn easily. The accounts are always a problem.
All the documents have been folded along the margin and sewn into a paper folder. Not a great deal of care has been taken to ensure that words and numbers are left out of the fold and therefore able to be read without trying to tear the document out of the folder! This is generally frowned upon by archivists!
I bought two more memory sticks for the camera today and will probably use them all up by tomorrow. Even if I cut my dates down from 1930 to 1925 there is a mountain of paperwork to get through. Hopefully once I get through all the minutes of meeting it will begin to get easier...I doubt it! Even with all these difficulties I still love these guys. Not only were they bureaucrats and bean counters they were capable humanitarians who provided a valuable service to vulnerable refugees over a long period of time.
This is my favourite story at the moment. The local representative in each refugee location was responsible for the welfare of the refugees and did their best to help in any circumstance. One of their duties was to make sure there was material to make coffins in the event of a death in the refugee camp. In Gallipoli on one occasion a refugee came to the office saying there were no materials to be had to make a coffin for a recently deceased refugee in the camp. What could the representative do? He ordered the wall between his office and his living quarters to be taken down and used to make the coffin. That is why I love these guys. They used what they had and did what they could to alleviate the suffering of fellow Russians in desperate situations.
On another note, the food in the hotel is fantastic. I have chosen something different every evening and it has all been great. I love being able to get in after a hard day, go down to the restaurant and have wonderful food placed in front of me. This happens at home of course but here I don’t even have to do the washing up!

Trains and Rain

Stonehaven railway station on a cold winter morning seems to be an integral part of my life this last year. 2008-09 was travelling to and from Glasgow and now the destination is Leeds. At 7.00 a.m the destination is not important. Standing waiting for a train is unpleasant in this weather!
There were no delays and the journey went well. I arrived in Leeds on time and walked up t the hotel. This is my first stay in the Best Western Merrion hotel and I have to say it is much better than the Discovery Inn. The room is small and the bath is not designed for anyone over 5 foot tall but there is no added fungus on the wall, the radiator works and there is a remote control for the tv.
I arrived at the University just after 2.00 to find it is winter graduation week. Seeing all those proud parents and robe-wearing graduands is always a delight.
I feel like a well known visitor now as all the staff in the archive recognised and welcomed me back. I got myself organised and ordered up the files I wanted to look at. I had identified 11 files in teh catalogue I wanted to see this week so ordered the first four. Richard, teh archivist, brought out one box and said that it was one of 19 boxes in file number 123. But that was OK as all the other files I wanted only contained 1 box. Oh whoopie! Instead of the 11 boxes I thought I would be looking through I now have to try to get through 29! Anyone want to take bets on the likelihood of complete success this week? Let me put it this way: I managed to photograph only 1 of said 19 boxes today...
As much as I love my dead Russian guys, I do worry that they are responsible for the deforestation of the planet. So much paperwork generated by a cause that historians have overlooked as a failure in the past. The beauty of this project is that they not only talked the talk, but also walked the walk. I am every day amazed at their achievements in their practical work to ease the plight of the post-revolutionary Russian refugees in Constantinople and, later, in Western Europe.
I left the archive around 6.30 and it was poring with rain. I remember grabbing my umbrella this morning with my backpack but it somehow didn't manage to leave the house with me. I was therefore very, very wet by the time I returned to the hotel. The duty manager looked at me then looked at the receptionist and said, 'I think we may need some towels down here.' I thought he was being a bit snippy so I retorted, 'I will try not to drip too much on you're carpet. If you could arrange some milder weather for tommorrow it would be appreciated.'
After a quick shower I headed down for dinner of Moules marinieres and linguine with meatballs. Very nice.
And now, in the words of a very old children's programme...Andy and Teddy say time for bed!
...

Better Late than Never

I couldn't get an internet connection on the way home from the archive trip so I typed my entry into Word with the intention of uploading it when I gor home. However, I was so releaved to get home that I for got to do it. Here it is now. Just in time for my next visit next week.

What can I say? There can only be so much that can go wrong in a week. Well, possibly. But I haven’t reached that limit yet. I double and triple checked I had everything packed on Thursday morning before setting out for the archive. Admittedly, I did try to use my library card to access the lift instead of my room card but that was just a momentary slip, surely?
On City Square just as I was leaving the hotel there were several people dressed in superhero costumes looking like they would rather be somewhere else. Maybe it was their turn to have a bad day. They were advertising Kleenex tissues for avoiding Swine flu!
It was dry today but all up the street were the slaughtered remains of umbrellas from yesterday’s wind! Poor twisted and tangled remains that were just waiting for the right moment to turn into Zombie Umbrellas. I wonder if anyone has written the script for that movie?
Things were going great. I was getting on with the photographing and was about to start on another file when I tried to insert one of the new memory sticks I bought on Wednesday. Nope. It wasn’t going to work. I tried the other one. Nope. Not that one either! I was going to have to go back to Boots and get them exchanged. Where was the receipt? Oh yes. I had decided to take it out of my handbag and it was back at the hotel!!!.
OK. Deep breaths. What if there was a photo shop nearer the University? I could buy new sticks and return the others to Boots tomorrow. That would be a good idea and would save me the walk down to the hotel again. Of course that would be too easy. Back to the hotel. Back to Boots – where I insisted the assistant tried out the replacement sticks in my camera before I bought them! He wasn’t happy about it but I think I looked like I was about to commit murder and he was the nearest target!
I must have really pissed of a petty bureaucratic demi-daemon from Hades this week. Seriously, he has it in for me!
Thank goodness I discovered the Thai Edge. In its advertising blurb it states it is ‘arguably one of the best Thai restaurants in Britain’ and has been voted in the top 10 Asian restaurants by the Times and the Independent. For the past 7 years it has held an AA rosette. The service and the food are fantastic and not expensive. It seems to be really popular with a wide range of people too. I will definitely be eating there regularly on my trips to Leeds.
Friday. Last day in the archives. I knew I was going to be short on time to finish the last of the files I wanted but would give it my best shot. I almost made it too. Unfortunately the battery let me down again and I didn’t have time to recharge it. The last 39 documents will have to wait until the next trip.
It has been a challenging week but hopefully the photos will be OK and I can work my way through them in the next few weeks. The Special Collections at Leeds Uni is a great place to work and the staff really helpful and friendly. Sure beats Russian archives and their obligatory ‘Dmitri’ who is permanently bad tempered!
Well, I have survived another trip away from the family hearth but it will be good to get home. The train is horrendously crowded but no delays (so far). I am looking forward to one of Sean’s special risottos tonight and a chilled glass of wine...and a warm, comfortable bed! It’s not much for a weary, technologically-outwitted traveller to hope for!
Until the next travel adventure....

The daemon continues his work

What can I say? There can only be so much that can go wrong in a week. Well, possibly. But I haven’t reached that limit yet. I double and triple checked I had everything packed 0n Thursday morning before setting out for the archive. Admittedly, I did try to use my library card to access the lift instead of my room card but that was just a momentary slip, surely?
On City Square just as I was leaving the hotel there were several people dressed in superhero costumes looking like they would rather be somewhere else. Maybe it was their turn to have a bad day. They were advertising Kleenex tissues and avoiding Swine flu!
It was dry today but all up the street were the slaughtered remains of umbrellas from yesterday’s wind! Poor twisted and tangled remains that were just waiting for the right moment to turn into Zombie Umbrellas. I wonder if anyone has written the script for that movie?
Things were going great. I was getting on with the photographing and was about to start on another file when I tried to insert one of the new memory sticks I bought on Wednesday. Nope. It wasn’t going to work. I tried the other one. Nope. Not that one either! I was going to have to go back to Boots and get them exchanged. Where was the receipt? Oh yes. I decided to take it out of my handbag and it was back at the hotel!!!.
OK. Deep breaths. What if there was a photo shop nearer the University? I could buy new sticks and return the others to Boots tomorrow. That would be a good idea and would save me the walk down to the hotel again. Of course that would be too easy. Back to the hotel. Back to Boots – where I insisted the assistant tried out the replacement sticks in my camera before I bought them! He wasn’t happy about it but I think I looked like I was about to commit murder and he was the nearest target!
I must have really pissed of a petty bureaucratic demi-daemon from Hades this week. Seriously, he has it in for me!
Thank goodness I discovered the Thai Edge. In its advertising blurb it states it is ‘arguably one of the best Thai restaurants in Britain’ and has been voted in the top 10 Asian restaurants by the Times and the Independent. For the past 7 years it has held an AA rosette. The service and the food are fantastic and not expensive. It seems to be really popular with a wide range of people too. I will definitely be eating there regularly on my trips to Leeds.
Friday. Last day in the archives. I knew I was going to be short on time to finish the last of the files I wanted but would give it my best shot. I almost made it too. Unfortunately the battery let me down again and I didn’t have time to recharge it. The last 39 documents will have to wait until the next trip.
It has been a challenging week but hopefully the photos will be OK and I can work my way through them in the next few weeks. The Special Collections at Leeds Uni is a great place to work and the staff really helpful and friendly. Sure beats Russian archives and their obligatory ‘Dmitri’ who is permanently bad tempered!
Well, I have survived another trip away from the family hearth but it will be good to get home. The train is horrendously crowded but no delays (so far). I am looking forward to one of Sean’s special risottos tonight and a chilled glass of wine...and a warm, comfortable bed! It’s not much for a weary, technologically-outwitted traveller to hope for!
Until the next travel adventure....

Crap Crappy Crappity Crapness

Some days are best forgotten. They simply should not exist. This is one of them. There is something about Wednesdays on archive trips that get me down and this is no exception.
First off, I didn't sleep as Tiny Bomber (aka No. 1 daughter) decided to cross the road last night without looking both ways. Thankfully the car that hit her wasn't going fast and she is OK but being miles away and being told not to worry doesn't help that much. Anyway, Mums are meant to worry, it's our job.
Breakfast this morning was strangely like being on the Marie Celeste. Not a soul in sight but everything was laid out for the buffet breakfast. I thought the croissants loked nice...mistake! French bakers were in mourning for these things bearing the name of croissant but not resembling them in any other way. I think they were probably used by the students in the 1968 Paris demonstrations as misiles against the gendarmes.
I definately wasn't going to forget the battery charger after yesterday's fiasco, so with my bag packed I set out to the shopping centre to buy another memory stick for the camera. I figured it would be useful and would mean that I wouldn't run out of memory before the end of the week. I am photographing so many documents!
Things were looking up. I even managed to find the correct short cut to the University! But, alas, it couldn't last.
Unpacking my bag in the archive I realised there was no camera battery. It must have fallen out of the charger as I was packing it! I couldn't believe it! After all my careful preperations! Crap Crappy Crappity Crapdoodle Crapness!
I thought about going straight back to the hotel but decided instead to order up the rest of the files I wanted to look at and go through them to see what was there before walking all the way back into the centre of Leeds.
I got back to the hotel about 3p.m and called Tiny Bomber. She had had a good night's rest and said she was fine. The battery was lying on the bed so. with it safely in my bag, I headed back up the hill to the archive! It was really wet and windy and everyone's umbrellas were being blown inside out. What a day!
I managed to get some more photos taken before the archive closed at 7p.m. then headed back into the centre for something to eat.
I decided on the Thai Edge restaurant. This proved to be the best decision of the day. It was a little oasis of serenity and excellent cuisine in my crapola day. I will definitely be going back there but I hope tomorrow is a better day all round than today.
Oh, and by the way, putting the dayglo digital clock under the bed didn't help. It just made the bed look nuclear powered.

The Camera Cannae Take it, Cap'n!

It was a sleepless night as the bed isn't comfortable and the clock/phone on the bedside cabinet gives out a brilliant green glow from its digital display! I might have to cover it with something tonight or hide it under the bed!
I decided to take a 'short cut' to Uni today. Given my famous propensity to head off in the wrong direction,this could only end in tears! It only took an extra half an hour!
As I had forgotten to pack my Russian dictionary I also had to stop off in the local Blackwells. That accomplished, I headed across the road to the archive. The file I was working on was huge so I decided to get right to it and start photographing. All wen well until the battery level showed empty. I only had a few pages to go so I carried on until the camera, with faultless timing, decided to switch itself of just as I was about to photograph the very last page. No amount of coaxing could persuade it to switch back on for the necessary 3 seconds. I had left the charger in the hotel so I will have to finish it tomorrow.
Therre was only one thing to do. Order up another couple of files and go for lunch. There is actually a Marks and Spencers exhibition on in the main foyer of the Parkinson BUilding! I might take a stroll through it tomorrow (couldn't be bothered today as I was grumpy about the camera!) I also have a sore back from standing taking photographs at a table that is a couple of centimetres too low! All I wanted to do was sit and have some lunch.
Having seen the size of the next two files I think I will have to find a photo shop tomorrow morning to buy more memory sticks. After these there are another 4 files I want to see before I go home. I will definitely remember the charger tomorrow as well!
I wanted to try a Thai restaurant tonight but it wasn't open when I went past so I stopped in Casa Mia again. Pizza tonight and a couple of well earned beers! I also wandered through the German market and will certainly go back before I leave. An interesting stall with hats needs further investigation!

Back to Leeds, Back to Reality.

Well it is almost 2 years since that depressing trip to the archives that made me realise my Russian wasn't good enough to continue with my research. I wish I could say my Russian is perfect now but it will still be a long slow process through the documents but the plan is to photograph as much as possible and take it back home to work through.
The trip down was uneventful. No missed connections in Edinburgh and a beautiful sunny day. Slightly duller in Leeds but dry at least. I went to check into the hotel first and as soon as I approached the desk the receptionist asked if I was with the Philosophical and Religious Studies Group. Obviously being a part of the Dept. of Divinity, History and Philosophy marks you out! I politely declined to be either philosophical or divine and checked in as the lone historical relic! It is the same hotel I stayed in before...nothing spectacular, but it is cheap! I guess that accounts for the large damp patch on the roof and wall with the accompanying growth of mould! It hasn't moved or tried to engage me in conversation so I am assuming it is harmless!
As I walked up to the University I noticed a German Christmas market in the centre. I will try to pop into it on the way home tomorrow. It looked festive but I can't guarantee its authentic Germanness yet. I will let you know....
It was good to be back in the archives. The staff are friendly and helpful and it is a nice, bright place to work. I ordered up my first two files and set to work. I managed to photograph the first file but the second is bigger and will need more time to sort through so I have left it for tomorrow. I had identified 8 files that I wanted to work through this week which doesn't seem like a lot but I was sure they would have a lot in them. Anyway, when Richard (archivist) brought out the boxes he very helpfully pointed out about a dozen more files that may actually be more inclusive of the information I am after....it is going to be a busy week!
I stopped off at Casa Mia, a restaurant I often go to when I am in Leeds. It still amazes me though that a woman dining alone creates such a stir. 'Yes, I want a table for one. No, I am not expecting anyone to join me.'
I had the spaghetti al frutti di mare, which was really good although there was ham in it which was slightly confusing. I wasn't aware that pigs were considered seafood. Maybe we are lumbered with land locked pigs in Scotland and they have swimming pigs in the Mediterranean!
I typed up some notes when I got back to the hotel and I am now enjoying a beer (served in a coffee mug) and some crisps before signing off for the night.

Happy Easter!

This is my last full day in St Petersburg and, as much as I love this city, I will be glad to get home. Yesterday I didn't even leave the hotel because I was too tired to think about walking anywhere or seeing anything. At least today I have made it into the internet cafe on Nevsky Prospekt.
The weather has been colder and ice was back on the Neva but it is a sunny 7 degrees today...well not that sunny really but it is dry at the moment! I might have something to eat after this then go down to the Artists graveyard as I didn't get any photos last time I was here. I am a bit of a graveyard fan! Especially if they have interesting headstones, and this one certainly does. It is very small and is very close to a metro station so I may just about manage to walk that far!
I am looking forward to getting home tomorrow but may need to sleep for a week! It will be sheer luxury sleeping in my own bed for more than 2 nights at a time as it has been since September!

Of Dogs and Doggy Things.

I was so tired yesterday I went back to the hotel in the middle of the afternoon and slept for 4 hours! As I am feeling 'Dog-tired' I thought I would continue in a doggy theme with the blog today!
When I was last in St Petersburg there were a lot of dogs wandering around the streets. There is the same problem in Moscow, only on a greater scale. During the economic disaster in the mid-90s people couldn't afford to keep pets and simply abandonned them to their own devices, hence large populations of stray dogs now. Mostly they don't bother anyone but they can be quite wild. Anyway, I was just thinking the city must have had a clean up of homeless dogs as there were none to be seen anywhere. The only one I had seen was in the army barracks just round the corner from the hotel and, while it looks pretty mangy, it seems to be their guard dog!
There is a scientific Institute on Mayakovsky Street with a garden in front where I used to see a pack of these strays every day as I went to the language school but there had been none there this time. I guess the weather is only now starting to improve and suddenly the dogs have reappeared. I have no idea where they went for the winter but they are back in the garden today en masse! It must be a pretty small gene pool as they all look the same! Part Alsatian, part Rotweiller!
I am also noticing that people are starting to own dogs again. Infact it seems to be a fashion accessory! Mostly they are small breeds and there is the tendency among the owners to dress them up in the most outrageous clothes! There is a shop I pass everyday that sells doggy clothes and accessories and it is quite disturbing! One day on Arts Square as I was photographing the statue of Puskin I felt something rub against my leg. I looked down and saw a Yorkshire terrier dressed in a blue T-shirt and jeans! I really thought I had had too much vodka and did a double take! There are doggy skirts and bonnets too. Honest! I have not been on the vodka!
I still haven't seen myself on TV and I am not entirely sure which channel it will be on but there seems to a regular 'ask the people' slot on 100tv every evening at 8pm. Perhaps tonight...

Of Libraries, Hats and Fame.

I had a pleasant walk down Nevsky Prospekt yesterday and had some lunch in the Coffee House before wandering through Gostiny Dvor. I succumbed to temptation and bought myself a Russian hat! Russians know how to wear hats and therefore have my undying respect. Westerners generally do not give head gear its due respect. It is a flaw in our character that I constantly strive against. My new hat has attitude. It positively demands the cold to do its worst! 'Come on snow, ice and frost if you think you are hard enough!'
I met up with the others at 3.30 and we were taken on a tour of the National Library, known locally as Publichka. It was an interesting tour but was designed for the general public and the tour guide really wasn't sure about specific research questions. Still, they have Voltaire's complete library there which was bought by Catherine the Great and the old parts still look like a real old fashioned library.
The group were keen to commence (or recommence) the drinking so I took my leave as I was feeling tired and needed to get some revision done before my next class.
Now, I know I am prone to unusual events happening around me but what happened last night was in a whole different league! There I was, minding my own business and wishing I didn't have quite so far to walk from the metro to the hotel when I suddenly discovered a microphone under my nose and a camera in my face! What, the intrepid reporter wanted to know, did I think about the quality of Russian products? Now, I am thinking, there is so much potential for a diplomatic incident here. What is the best way to proceed?! I decided on the tactful and diplomatic course if for no other reason than I was really tired and couldn't be bothered with the hassle!! Actually I probably looked like a rabbit caught in the headlights and jabbered like an idiot!
I would like to pretend that I covered myself in glory and conducted the entire interview in Russian...alas, not! But the reporter wasn't to be put off by such trivialities and spoke in English!! So, as a result I am now a minor celebrity...at least in the language school!
I am really begining to tire now and wish I was home. Two more days of classes and two free days to go. I leave on Monday but unfortunately not until the evening. They don't let you into the airport here until your flight is announced, usually and hour before departure so I will have to find something to do for the day that is reasonable close to the hotel. The Aurora and Finland Station are close by and therefore don't involve long walks or I may just sit in the hotel with a coffee and read a book. Anyway, between now and then I would quite like to have a quiet, incident free time!

Of Archives and Bureaucracy

I have spent the last couple of days with the archive tour group that came up from Moscow. I met up with them on Sunday at the Marble Palace where a local History professor did a quick tour covering the revolution. I didscovered where that British Embassy was housed at that time, which is useful to know. I do feel it helps to know where things are in relation to other things as it can give a better understanding of how events happened. We then decamped to a cafe to warm up with some tea and coffee (It was a bitterly cold day, but dry at least!) Tony and I stayed on to have something to eat there but everyone else headed of to do their own thing.
I arranged to meet up with the group at their hotel the following morning before heading back to the hotel on the metro. They are staying at the Hotel Moskva which is so much better than the crappy place we stayed in Moscow when I did the tour last year! RGIA was the destination so of we went on the metro. It has just opened in a brand new building which was a real change from the normal archives here. It has fantastic facilities, computerised catalogues, state-of-the-art scanning facilities etc. A really brilliant place to work we all thought. Then we tried to register! Only Brendan had a letter of recommendation with him so he was the only one they would allow to register but that fell through when he didn't have a photo! And he was only allowed to put one topic of interest down on the application form. I can see I will have to give it some thought before I commit to anything specific. I guess the trick is to make it as broad as possible! I wonder if they would accept 'Russian History' as the theme!!?
So even with all the modern facilities remnants of old style bureaucracy remain! Still, compared to the old Senate building where they used to be kept it is a palace. They showed us a film of the transfer of archives, which was, surprisingly, completed in only one day with 1700 trips in lorries.
As none of us were going to get to work there we headed of to find some bookshops over in the University area. It was a horrible, wet, cold day so walking was not very pleasant but Tony and I got to several bookshops and I was lucky enough to pick up 5 books on the emmigration.
At 6pm we met everyone again at the European University of St Petersburg where we had a talk about post grad courses there. They seem to have a great programme of courses for overseas students taught in English. Boris had then arranged a Georgian banquet for us at a local restaurant. There was so much food! I thought I would explode! Just when you thought everything had been brought to the table the waitresses would arrive with more food! And of course there was vodka and toasts! I knew I had to walk back to the hotel so I stuck to the wine. I didn't think it would be a good idea to stagger over Liteiny Bridge and fall into the Neva!!!
The hotel is so quiet now that the kids have gone. It is such a luxury to get a good night's sleep! And I was able to have a lie-in this morning as I am not meeting the group until this afternoon. We are getting a tour of the National Library which is just beside Gostiny Dvor, the enormous market. I have spotted a couple of hats there an I may be tempted to pop back in to get them!

Of Celebrations and Obstacles

Suddenly I am half way through my stay in this wonderful city. I am torn between wanting it to last longer and getting home. Between Glasgow and here I seem to have been travelling forever and I really just want to curl up on my own sofa for more than a couple of nights at a time! However, I will be so sad to say goodbye to 'Peter' again.
Either The Pink Terrorists have departed or they were on their very best behaviour last night. Not a squeak! Celebrations! Obviously the gymnasts are much more serious and in bed early. I noticed an Italian team this morning as well as the others. Some of them have Beijing patches on their tracksuits so I am assuming they are the real deal and this is a major competition. Haven't seen TeamGB yet!
As it is Sunday morning everything is very quiet here. I will meet up with Tony and the archive tour people later today and we are going on a walking tour along the Embankment. Until then I am passing the time in CafeMax (Internet cafe) and probably have coffee and a muffin or two in Coffee House.
As I have mentioned in other posts the traffic here is something to bedold but I thought I would also add that it is not the only daily obstacle that needs to be carefully, yet nonchalently, negotiated! For a start, the pavements have not been flat since they were laid (doubtful if they were even flat then!) They are very uneven and full of potholes to trip up the unwary. If that is not enough, we have had snow and icy conditions here some mornings and gritting is not considered necessary. I have a very stout pair of walking boots but most young women here wear impossibly high stillettos and I have developed great respect for their ability to stay upright on icy, pot-holed pavements (and avoiding the tram lines as they cross the street!)
This morning I discovered yet another obstacle. Pavement cleaners with power hoses! These come in two forms. There is the two-man version where one operates the hose and the other sweeps the resulting mud into the street and the large truck that drives onto the pavement and use even larger hoses to blast pavements and lamp post and...well, generally anything they decide needs cleaning. I have to stress the size of these trucks. They are not the small Green Machines they push along the centre of Aberdeen to clean up the pavements, or even the chewing gum cleaners they brought in a couple of years back. These are like smaller versions of petrol tankers and not much smaller at that! Of course, the pavements on Nevsky Prospect and the width of a small street but I still prefer to think that pavements are for pedestrians and streets are for the traffic! These monsters just drive onto the pavement and start blasting away at the accumulated dirt and you had better get out of the way if you don't want a soaking! It is impossible to avoid a few splashes as these things are so powerful spray is sent in all directions when they get started.
I realized early on that personal responsibility is the byword here. If you get wet, knocked down, fall over, have falling masonary drop on your head there is no point looking for one of those personal injury lawyers here! You are absolutely responsible for your own safety out there. Once I realized that, it is really no more dangerous than any other place.

An Altercation with the Local Constabulary.

I ended up at the Russian Museum yesterday and spent a wonderful afternoon wandering around the exhibitions. It is much smaller than the Hermitage and easier to get around. They have some amazing artworks there and I discovered loads of Russian artists I had never heard of. There was also a special folk art exhibition and one about american artists of Russian descent. I did manage to get myself into a bit of a loop and went round the American artist's exhibition 3 times before finding the right exit! I obviously have an aura of 'shouldn't be allowed out on her own' as several female members of staff felt obliged to keep pointing me in the right direction which was invariable the opposite of the one I was headed in!
It was after 5pm when I left there and the weather had improved although it was still very cold. I went to my usual little bistro before heading back to the hotel. And this is where the day began to get really interesting!
I was just going in through the inner doors of the metro when I saw a young man charging towards me. He swerved past me and through the door but the cop behind him wasn't able to avoid me and sent me spinning! I am not sure it was the most graceful pirouette and it most certainly wasn't the best landing...on my a$$! However, I have to say the cop did not get off so lightly. He riccocheted off me into the door frame making a deep impression on his face!(They make the doors to last here!) He then continued in hot pursuit. My aura really shone then. I was the target of every concerned babushka for miles around. Bus loads of them seemed to arrive to help me!! They took a lot of persuading that I was actually none the worse for the experience and I eventually managed to get them to agree that I was capable of travelling on my own. I do however suspect that several of them may have followed me home just to make sure!!)Then the cop returned with his target firmly grasped by the collar! He will have a wonderful dent in his head today and an amazing black eye!! I have to admit to feeling quite pleased that I didn't let the side down in an away game....Scottish Tourist:1-Local Constabulary:0!
And I thought it was the little pink ones I had to worry about! Mind you, they really excelled themselves last night. It was nearly 2.00am before I finally got to sleep! Several people were telling them to quieten down but as one group of mini terrorists went to their rooms another emerged and started all over again. As I went down to breakfast this morning I noticed through the open bedroom doors that there were several empty beer bottles. It is a sad reality here that even children are alcoholics. They begin drinking at a young age and they drink every day. It seems normal to them but it is actually incredibly sad. Of course we have similar problems in Scotland but it is different here. What a waste of their lives. I think the life expectation of a Russian man is 50 something.
I have had one lesson already today and am having a break before going back for another this afternoon to make up for the one missed yesterday. After that I will probably just have something to eat and head back to the hotel. I may need to get a couple of hours kip before the noise starts and then I can read a book or something until they settle down. I would ask for a different room but I suspect that they have basically taken over the building! There are several hundred of then, not just a few dozen!!

Of Bottomless Lenin and Hula Hoops

It snowed last night so it is cold and damp today. A bit like Scotland really with one nice day followed by a crappy day. I managed to get some photos of Lenin yesterday before he was completely covered up. They have decided to hide his bottomlessness from public view until they decide what to do with him. It seems it will cost a lot to repair him and it is understandably not going down well in a city where there is abject poverty that could be alleviated by that money. Watch this space for further developments.
The grim news is that the pink tutus have now been joined by tracksuited mini gymnasts from various countries. My suspicions were first aroused as to this invasion when at breakfast I was faced with several yellow tracksuits bearing the name 'China' on the back, followed by white and red ones from Russia and blue from Kazakhstan. There were even some burgundy ones from Hungary. Am I to have no peace?
I suppose it is an educational experience. I hadn't previously been aware of the array of bags used to carry hula hoops in! There is the basic one, that comes in various colours and resembles a steering wheel cover. Then there are ones with special handles or even extra pockets. What would you put in the pocket of a hula hoop holder? Or why indeed does a hulahoop need a cover? Can they get damaged if not suitably protected?
I am having a day off today as my teacher couldn't get into the city this morning. Traffic problems are awful at the best of times and it was simply impassable today. She offered to come in later but I suggested that we just tag the time onto the end of other classes. So I am free to do touristy things. (What else can I blow up?)
I am thinking either the Hermitage or the Russian Museum...to visit, not blow up! Because the weather is so bad I think an indoor pursuit is better but I really want to get over to Stone Island and Yelagin Island before I leave.

Has the Revolution started?

Early yesterday morning someone tried to blow up the famous statue of Lenin in front of Finland Station. I walked past it this morning but didn't see the damage. Apparently they put explosives inside and blew his bottom off! I will try to get photos tonight!
Apart from that all seems calm! Well, if you don't count the tutus. Unfortunately, my hopes of them disappearing yesterday did not come to fruition and the little darlings are still running around (maybe not for much longer!) I would complain at reception but it is hard to maintain umbrage when you can't really speak the language!
The weather has improved and it is very Spring like today. There is still lot of ice in the Neva but it is much warmer and the sun is shining. I plan to go to Vladimirskii cathedral today and perhaps Dostoevskii's house. I haven't been to either before but I am finding that my range is getting wider as I now use the metro!

6 Cars, 3 Lanes

I had forgotten how crazy the drivers are here! It was so much fun watching several cars jostling for a position on the 3 available lanes this morning. And I am once again getting used to crossing the roads St Petersburg style. There is only one rule...Show no fear. If you hesitate you are done for. Once you have seen the chance to cross, go for it. Of course this is a challenge to any self respecting motorist who will then try to kill you but you must not hesitate. That would be fatal. At best you would get very dirty from rolling on the bonnet of a car that has never been washed, at worst you would be dead! This brings me to s sub-clause of the only rule. Don't challenge drivers by making eye contact. I know, my reaction is usually to give them a 'de Nero' look. You know the one where he points to his own eyes with the index and forefingers and then points them at his victim?! Under no circumstances do this in Peter! The option of getting away dirty is then removed!
Showing no fear while acting completely nonchalently is the pinacle to which I aspire! I am in awe of the locals, usually older people under 5 foot in height, who step out without a care in the world. Sheer genius!
The 'no eye contact' rule is also recommended on the metro. I am slowly getting used to this form of torture. This morning I was practically rugby tackled to the floor at the kiosk. When I turned round to see who had so urgently needed to get in front of me it was a little old lady pointedly not making eye contact!
The pink tutus were out in force again last night. I thought it was going to be quiet so I went to bed only to be woken five minutes later by a fireworks display outside my window! There was nothing else to do but to watch it and then put up with the noise as hyped up little sproglets came running and screaming back along the corridor. My only hope was that the fireworks meant that they would be leaving today. Thankfully that appears to be the case as they were all pink and giggly outside the hotel when I left for the morning's traffic and metro entertainment.

This Time it's Cold!

Well, that 22 weeks in Glasgow flew past and now here I am in St Petersburg pretending I know what I am doing. I guess I have managed to buy myself some internet time so I must have said something right at the desk...and I even got student discount!
It is much colder than the last time I was here and the Neva is still frozen over. In fact there was more ice on it this morning than last night so it was a cold night! My room in the St Petersburg hotel is cosy though, if a tad basic! And the bathroom is tiny. The shower was nice and warm this morning so I won't complain...and I didn't have to queue up with adolescent boys for the privilege either! (Long story regarding communal showers in an even more basic hotel in Moscow!)The only problem with the hotel is that I seem to be on the floor that has been taken over by children's theatre and dance groups! Lots of pink tutus and giggling and, even more infuriating, running up and down the corridor till all hours and then starting again at 7 in the morning! Unfortunately I managed to get caught up with their queue for breakfast so tomorrow, if they are still there, I will have to go either earlier or later.
Lessons start this afternoon and I am looking forward to meeting Maria again. Although I am sure she will despair at my hesitant attampts at conversation!