Day 3. Rowardennan to Inverarnan

Day three took us to the half way mark in our Scholarship of the Way. It was an eventful day. We had been advised that the first part - to Inversnaid - was easy but after that it got difficult. Immediately after Rowardennan there was a steep climb which then promptly took us back down to a short distance along the road we had left. Seemed a bit pointless really! Also, we had been told that there were two paths, the higher route through the forest was easier but not so interesting. I didn't see where the path divided but whichever path I was on (I think it was the lower one as it was along the lochside) it was not 'easy'. In fact this was where I stopped thinking of the West Highland Way as being a 'walk'! There is so much clambering up and over rocks and then down the other side that it should be called 'mountaineering'!
Unfortunately I took a tumble crossing a stream and pulled a muscle in my calf quite early in the day. Thankfully, at that point I was on my own and the undignified and rapid acquaintance with the ground was not witnessed! I was able to continue but it was eventually going to become a problem. A second problem was my much hated waterproof trousers which restricted movement and, unsurprisingly, given their tightness and the effort needed to get over some of the hurdles, eventually gave way to pressure in the nether regions! They would not be worn again!
After a long and wet 5 hours I made it to Inversnaid where we all met up for a well earned rest. While the other Drs were ready to continue I decided to retreat to the ferry across the loch and on to Inverarnan where I would line up the beers for the others arriving. The Drover's Inn at Inverarnan is something to behold. From the outside it looks like Disney's Tower of Terror or a haunted house. It is a 18th century building after all! Inside the reception area the guest is met by a host of stuffed creatures including a full sized standing bear! Quaint, is the word I think, to describe it all!
The second half of the journey was even more difficult than had been expected with one intrepid Dr announcing, while sliding down the side of a large rock, that she felt like Lara Croft. It is an image that has stuck in our minds to recall our journey! Large beers were needed. And I had to apologise to one of the Scholarship sisters for being very tetchy with her while she offered a hand to steady me on the way up an inconvenient boulder. I had wanted to swear very loudly at the rock and vent my anger and had misdirected my rudeness.
'Rude?' said the helpful Dr, 'You can't be rude to me. I'm German!'
All was smoothed over and with food and whiskey inside it was time for bed before the next stage.

Day 2: Drymen to Rowardennan

A good sleep and a hearty breakfast set us all up for the second day of walking. The weather was good which was a bonus but not too hot to drain us of energy. We were soon off the road and heading up hill through trees and some stunning views, especially as we came in sight of Loch Lomond. Drs Crerar and Metze decided to take the route up Conic Hill while Dr Roexe and myself took the low road to Balmaha in order to preserve feet from too many blisters and knees/ankles from too many aches. The low road probably wasn't as scenic and much of it was along a road but we arrived in Balmaha with plenty of rest time before the others caught up with us.
Lunch in the local hostelry recharged the batteries somewhat and we were ready to set off on the next part of the journey. The Scholarship of the Way were in good spirits and as our overnight accommodation was actually en route to Rowardennan we decided to call ahead to see if we could drop off our backpack as we passed to save us carrying them the last few miles.
This was an excellent plan as it turned out. The last part of the day's walk was harder with lots of up and down climbing. On one particularly horrible, stepped section I was despairing (and swearing) when Dr Crerar had the most excellent idea of naming each step after a Cabinet member. As a consequence there are now steps on the Way that will forever be called F*cking Michael Gove, F*cking Theresa May, F*cking David Davis, Boris f*cking Johnston etc (there were a lot of steps and all were named!) Each step got a whack with my walking poles (named Biff and Boff) as we named them. It was surprisingly therapeutic and morale boosting.
The Clansman in Rowardennan provided a welcome retreat for food and beer at the end of the day before Ivor from the B&B we were staying in came to collect us to take us to our very welcome overnight rest on the shores of the loch. Ivor and his wife Izzi were fabulous hosts and after what was undoubtedly the best breakfast on the walk, Ivor dropped us back in Rowardennan the next morning with packed lunches provided by Izzi. I heartily recommend staying at Anchorage Cottage with Ivor and Izzi (and Haggis the cat) if you are in that neck of the woods. You will have a warm welcome and a very comfortable stay. http://www.anchoragecottage.co.uk/

A Late Update

Wifis, or lack of wifis, did not permit me to keep a running commentary of my walk along the West Highland Way. Since I completed the walk and returned home 'life' has got in the way and I have been remiss in updating you good readers of my escapades from Milngavie to Fort William. I will try to update here and thank all those who so kindly donated to my fundraising page. There is still some time to add a small donation if you find my efforts in any way worthwhile or amusing. Every little helps a great cause.
Day1. Milngavie to Drymen. First of all I have to offer huge thanks to The Other Dr Crerar who kindly transported the walking Drs from Edinburgh to Milngavie for the start of the walk. We arrived at the starting point in good time and in comfort and began with a photo opportunity and a quick coffee. I had imagined the first part of the walk to be through suburban shopping centres or industrial units but in fact the path immediately enters the wooded Mugdock Country Park and gives the walk a real country feel from the outset.Unfortunately the last part of the walk to Drymen is along the road which is not so pleasant although the countryside is still beautiful.
For some reason, which we never discovered, the approach to Drymen had road signs saying 'Drive Carefully. Hobbits' and 'The Shire'. As we were also on an adventure and all adventurers need a collective name we decided to call ourselves The Fellowship of the Way.
In Drymen we stayed at Kip in the Kirk. The bunk room (2 sets of bunk beds) was small but it had a fabulous en suite shower room! A large walk in shower with flip flops and micro fibre towels provided - just what weary walkers needed to freshen up. We were welcomed with tea and scones - a real treat after a day's walking!
The weather was mostly good, although after a break for lunch it looked like it could rain so I put on my waterproof trousers, which leads me to my rant. Walking is considered one of the best forms of exercise and as such should surely be encouraged, especially among the under-active and overweight. As I fall into those categories I was more than disappointed to discover how difficult it was to get large sized walking gear. Staff in Cotswold's were more than helpful and I really appreciated the advice and tips I received regarding my walking boots and shoes but getting my size in walking trousers, fleeces etc was problematic. I eventually bought trousers and waterproof trousers on ebay and I had to buy a man's fleece.
The waterproof trousers were 2 sizes bigger than I usually wear but were still very tight. Getting them on was a problem and once they were on I really didn't want all the effort of getting them off again when it stopped raining! Furthermore, they stopped water getting in but they also stopped sweat getting out with the result that by the time I got to Drymen my leggings were soaking and very uncomfortable! So, come on outdoor companies! Get a better range of clothing for larger women (and possibly men too - I didn't really study the options for men). I hope that walking will mean that I will not always continue to be a larger woman but it would be nice to be able to get activity-appropriate gear while I am.

Time to put the walking boots on...

When we began to plan walking the West Highland Way seven months ago it seemed a distant event. And now, suddenly, it is here! I think I have prepared fairly well and now I am all packed. I have the blister plasters, sunscreen, midgie repellent, knee and ankle supports quality snacks (and chocolate) and all the other bits and pieces needed for a successful walk. All I have to do now is actually walk it! I will be walking with some wonderful fellow doctors - a Chapter of Doctors, perhaps, and I have no doubt that we will get each other to the end in Fort William. In a moment of confidence loss this morning I said to The Wing Commander, 'What if I don't manage it?' He replied 'You will manage.' Damn, he has good answers! We will all manage and I will keep you up to date with our adventures on here, wifis permitting.

In Which I Turn Right Instead of Left

Just to be clear this is not a political post!
Today I took Rousay for our usual walk on The Moss but entered at the Myrtle Terrace gate rather than our more common jaunt to the Bruntland Road entrance. The Bruntland Road entrance is an easy walk round 'the loop' but by entering at Myrtle Terrace we have a slightly longer walk through a wilder part of The Moss. Rousay likes this walk as it gives her more scope to roam 'off piste' and leap out at me from heather and gorse hidey places! However, today, instead of turning left onto our usual walk I turned right to explore The Moss more fully.
I have tried this walk before (which is popular with the local professional dog walkers) but as the name (The Moss) suggests it is, in essence, a peat bog and before I ventured very far I became bogged (Ha! See what I did there?) down and as I was wearing trainers at the time I thought better of continuing and turned back to our usual path. Today, however, was dry and the weather has been sunny for a few days so I thought it was worth another try. I have to say it was still very springy underfoot but I didn't sink into a gloopy, peaty puddle!
What an amazing place The Moss is! I have lived nearby for many years and have visited it regularly over the years but this was a new and exciting discovery. The path meanders through the area, sometimes in open heathery plains and sometimes in overgrown pockets that could be a fantastic fairy hide-away for little children to explore. There was even a tree growing ON the path at one point. One branch had grown to the left and one to the right leaving a perfect V-shape for the walker to step through! Even when very close to the passing A90 dual carriageway the heavy tree growth deadens the sound of traffic scooting past and makes you feel like you are in a little oasis of calm.
Rousay had a ball. She was so excited to be able to run in a new area and she loved getting 'lost' among the wild cotton and whin bushes. There was a scarey moment though when 5 large dogs appeared unexpectedly from dense undergrowth. They stopped suddenly while Rousay dropped immediately into a crouch on the ground. With a growl they all approached at once to say hello. Rousay was a bit overwhelmed but coped ok and the pack were friendly. (I did have a moment where I was concerned at their intentions myself!) Their walker soon appeared with another pack on leads! They were all obviously enjoying their walk as much as Rousay.
Parts of the path are very densely overgrown and the 'path' is very narrow. When I suddenly came out into a clearing, which I saw was our normal path around 'the loop' I realised just how hidden this little gem of a walk was. I have passed that path so often and had never spotted it before! Well, it is definitely on our regular walks from now on - weather permitting!
So, for those who need a little encouragement to try something new and to discover the unexpected, please, occasionally, turn right instead of left.
Except in politics.

In Which I am Reminded that I am a Complete Airhead.

I began training for the West Highland Way in January and have been building up my distances over the last few months. Today I decided, after a couple of false starts over the last couple of weeks, to walk from Banchory to Duthie Park along the Deeside Way. I had it in my mind that it was 17 km and would be a good distance to achieve, beating my previous record of just under 15km.
The Wing Commander dropped me at the entrance to the path in Banchory and Rousay and I set off on a warm but slightly misty day. The first part, to Milton of Crathes, is a lovely walk with views over the river. It wasn't busy but we were able to stop and speak to other dog walkers and pass the time of day before continuing on our way. Rousay was excited to have new 'sniffs' and she certainly inhaled them all!
After a brief 'comfort stop' at Milton of Crathes where a nesting robin gave Rousay a piece of its mind (I don't know why, maybe just existing in the same general space as it. Robins are like that) we continued on our way. This is where the path is incomplete and it involves short walks along the side of the busy Aberdeen-Banchory road but we were doing well, Rousay was behaving very well and I was enjoying listening to my special playlist. After walking 10km I decided to stop for a spot of lunch - ham and tomato sandwiches (shared with Rousay).
I was beginning to get a little concerned that I was still not in sight of Aberdeen but I thought I couldn't be too far away and the countryside was lovely despite a falling mistiness. Staring off again after our break I realised we were coming in to Drumoak where we had to leave the path again to walk through the village. At this point I realised I was still nowhere near the city and had seriously underestimated the distance! My expected 17km was looking more like 17 MILES. I am such a dimwit!
Half the difficulty with walking - or any challenge really - is remaining positive and confident. Both quickly left at this stage just as the walking became more difficult. The terrain itself isn't particularly challenging but there is a long stretch of the walk at this stage where the path becomes a road. It is quiet and there is not a lot of traffic but it meant I had to put Rousay on the lead (there were also fields of sheep that I didn't want her getting too interested in). All I could think about was what an idiot I was for underestimating the walk and how sore my feet were becoming. Each step became a chore.
Rousay is good on the lead but is not particularly happy. She prefers to run free and take time to sniff. Mind you she wasn't too bothered about the sheep. She gave them a cursory glance but carried on without too much bother. She doesn't like traffic though and immediately lies down on the verge if a vehicle approaches. I just wanted to put one foot in front of the other and keep moving. Not a good partnership at this point!
When we finally got back on the path I felt so defeated. I was still only approaching the outskirts of the city and I knew I had at least 2-3 hours to go to my stated destination. As if that wasn't enough, my phone was rapidly losing life. I decided to throw the towel in and call home for an emergency 'airlift'. I stumbled on to Culter where I was able to send one last text to my rescuer giving coordinates before the phone, like its owner, gave up the pretence of existing.
I managed 18.6km but this walk really drove home the importance of being prepared and staying positive. Walking is better done with more than one person - one of the drawbacks of training alone. Ultimately, I hope this experience has helped prepare me better for the challenge ahead but right now I need  some sympathy and wine. I need wine most of all. But send sympathy too. And if you specialise in foot rubs and happen to be passing my door, please come in. And please remember to drop some dosh on my fundraising page. It is for a great cause. https://mydonate.bt.com/fundraisers/jennygrieve-laing1

Adventures in the Big City

I took Rousay to Edinburgh this week. It was her first time in a city and she found it all a little overwhelming. There were too many loud noises, people and busses for her liking but there were nice bits too. The dog-friendly cafe was a real treat and the American tourists fell in love with her. All in all, despite the bustle and noise, Rousay coped very well but she is really a country dog at heart and was glad to get back home.
I didn't make a special trip to Edinburgh just so Rousay could experience big city life though. My main reason was to visit the Talbot Rice Gallery. What a treat! And what a little gem of a gallery. The Between Poles and Tides exhibition displayed their new acquisitions while the Torrie Collection displayed the gallery's founding collection of Grand Masters and exquisite small bronzes. However, of all the delights on show it was Michael Barr's Hostipitalidade exhibition that blew my  mind! The gallery pamphlet describes the exhibition as 'an exploration of the interwoven meanings of hospitality and hostility'. Barr's 6 month residency at the gallery from September 2016 also mirrored a similar stay by a captive puma in 1827 consisted of 30 'performative interventions' while wearing a costume which only left the eyes uncovered. The current exhibition consists of the costume worn by Barr - a very strange, alien-like creation that really defies description (the best I can do is to liken it to a hairy ALF from the 80s TV series) - and a video entitled ETHOGRAM which documents his residency with a spoken soundtrack which is informed by the works of Derrida and Levinas - it is Derrida's term for 'hospitality' rendered in Portuguese, that gives the title to the exhibition.
It is an extraordinary exhibition and I am so glad I made the trip to see it. I am only sorry I didn't get the chance to see the actual performances by Barr although the ETHOGRAM is touching, amusing, scary and beautiful in its own right. I only wish I could exhort you all to rush along to see it but sadly the exhibition ends this weekend.
On the way out of Edinburgh I spotted a sign outside a pub which was advertising a live show by George Michael this weekend. I had to look closely before I noticed the little caveat, hand-written in brackets, stating '(tribute act)'. I can't decide if I was relieved or disappointed.

New Boots and Vertigo

My walking boots are very comfy and have taken me to some exceptional places in their life-time. They have helped me trudge the streets of Moscow, up Mont Segur and through the Valley of the Kings. But they are past their prime and probably not up to the challenge of my new adventure which is to walk the West Highland Way so, with sadness, it is time to let them go.
I enlisted the expert knowledge of the staff at Cotswold Outdoor and came away with a very fine pair of boots which I have been breaking in by wearing them around the house. Today I decided that it was time for them to face the great outdoors and so we went on a jaunt around Stonehaven and the surrounding area.
I often take Rousay (the dog) along Stonehaven beach where she plays with her various doggy friends but today I decided to go up to the war memorial and back. Google maps assured me there was a path from the harbour area up Bervie Braes (very steep slopes behind the harbour area) but when I looked at where the path was supposed to be I decided discretion was the better part of valour and opted for a longer, but decidedly safer, walk along the street and then onto the old coast road. It was a very pleasant walk and when we reached the memorial I thought it would be equally pleasant to continue along the coastal path towards Dunnottar Castle a short distance away. The path is very close to the edge of a very steep descent onto the rocks below, so, as Rousay isn't familiar with the consequences of running over steep inclines and as a collie had to be rescued nearby recently for deciding to investigate such consequences, I put her back on her lead while the path hugged the edge of the cliffs.
I don't think I have ever mentioned on this blog that I suffer from vertigo. It hits me sometimes when I am near the edge of high buildings or precipitous places. I say sometimes as it is rather random. On some occasions it can be severe and other times barely noticeable and it is not dependent on the size of the drop. However, I try to not let it control me or my activities and have developed coping mechanisms that work quite well. Well, today my vertigo decided to make an appearance...and dialled it up to 11! And then I realised that there is no coping mechanism to reach for when you have a dog on a lead that is trying to pull you along a path and there is a vertical drop immediately to your left!
Often, when it is as bad as it was today, I will use my hand to shield my eyes on the side nearest the drop - if I can't see it, it can't scare the bejeebus out of me. Today, however, I needed my left hand to hold Rousay's lead as my right hand was desperately trying to hold onto the grass on my right side! I have great faith in the saving strength of grass...well it seems that way when a fall feels immanent!
After a panicked few minutes I reached what I considered to be safer ground but there was no way I could return along that path. An alternative route back into Stonehaven had to be found!
I could have returned along the old coast road from where I rejoined it at the castle car park but decided to walk along to Dunnottar woods, another favourite spot for Rousay to run free. And so my short walk to break in my new boots turned into a nearly ten kilometre trek! The boots worked well and my panic has subsided. Alternative walks will be sought in future although I have to admit it is a very fine walk with some splendid views...if you have a head for heights.

It's Been a While!

Well, it has been some time since I made a post on here. There are a couple of reasons for that. The first is that while finishing off my PhD I didn't really have much time for blogging, although I did try a couple of times to put up some new posts. The second reason is that in trying to put up posts I completely forgot my login info and couldn't figure out how to get back in quickly so eventually abandoned the idea!
I have now finished my PhD, making me Dr of Dead Russian Guys, and after several hours (yes, it took me several hours to figure out how to get back in - my PhD isn't in blog site peculiarities after all) I am now back in control (?) of the site. So, hello again!
I started the blog way back when as a way to talk about my travels to conferences, archives and other wanderings associated with my PhD and, over the years, I added some holiday posts which I hope to continue. However, after a long PhD period which meant I was almost exclusively sedentary I have accepted a new challenge which will involve a more peripatetic life. As the subtitle of my blog alludes to peripatetic ramblings I think my new adventure will fit right in.