Saturday, April 11, 2009

Happy Easter!

This is my last full day in St Petersburg and, as much as I love this city, I will be glad to get home. Yesterday I didn't even leave the hotel because I was too tired to think about walking anywhere or seeing anything. At least today I have made it into the internet cafe on Nevsky Prospekt.
The weather has been colder and ice was back on the Neva but it is a sunny 7 degrees today...well not that sunny really but it is dry at the moment! I might have something to eat after this then go down to the Artists graveyard as I didn't get any photos last time I was here. I am a bit of a graveyard fan! Especially if they have interesting headstones, and this one certainly does. It is very small and is very close to a metro station so I may just about manage to walk that far!
I am looking forward to getting home tomorrow but may need to sleep for a week! It will be sheer luxury sleeping in my own bed for more than 2 nights at a time as it has been since September!

Thursday, April 9, 2009

Of Dogs and Doggy Things.

I was so tired yesterday I went back to the hotel in the middle of the afternoon and slept for 4 hours! As I am feeling 'Dog-tired' I thought I would continue in a doggy theme with the blog today!
When I was last in St Petersburg there were a lot of dogs wandering around the streets. There is the same problem in Moscow, only on a greater scale. During the economic disaster in the mid-90s people couldn't afford to keep pets and simply abandonned them to their own devices, hence large populations of stray dogs now. Mostly they don't bother anyone but they can be quite wild. Anyway, I was just thinking the city must have had a clean up of homeless dogs as there were none to be seen anywhere. The only one I had seen was in the army barracks just round the corner from the hotel and, while it looks pretty mangy, it seems to be their guard dog!
There is a scientific Institute on Mayakovsky Street with a garden in front where I used to see a pack of these strays every day as I went to the language school but there had been none there this time. I guess the weather is only now starting to improve and suddenly the dogs have reappeared. I have no idea where they went for the winter but they are back in the garden today en masse! It must be a pretty small gene pool as they all look the same! Part Alsatian, part Rotweiller!
I am also noticing that people are starting to own dogs again. Infact it seems to be a fashion accessory! Mostly they are small breeds and there is the tendency among the owners to dress them up in the most outrageous clothes! There is a shop I pass everyday that sells doggy clothes and accessories and it is quite disturbing! One day on Arts Square as I was photographing the statue of Puskin I felt something rub against my leg. I looked down and saw a Yorkshire terrier dressed in a blue T-shirt and jeans! I really thought I had had too much vodka and did a double take! There are doggy skirts and bonnets too. Honest! I have not been on the vodka!
I still haven't seen myself on TV and I am not entirely sure which channel it will be on but there seems to a regular 'ask the people' slot on 100tv every evening at 8pm. Perhaps tonight...

Wednesday, April 8, 2009

Of Libraries, Hats and Fame.

I had a pleasant walk down Nevsky Prospekt yesterday and had some lunch in the Coffee House before wandering through Gostiny Dvor. I succumbed to temptation and bought myself a Russian hat! Russians know how to wear hats and therefore have my undying respect. Westerners generally do not give head gear its due respect. It is a flaw in our character that I constantly strive against. My new hat has attitude. It positively demands the cold to do its worst! 'Come on snow, ice and frost if you think you are hard enough!'
I met up with the others at 3.30 and we were taken on a tour of the National Library, known locally as Publichka. It was an interesting tour but was designed for the general public and the tour guide really wasn't sure about specific research questions. Still, they have Voltaire's complete library there which was bought by Catherine the Great and the old parts still look like a real old fashioned library.
The group were keen to commence (or recommence) the drinking so I took my leave as I was feeling tired and needed to get some revision done before my next class.
Now, I know I am prone to unusual events happening around me but what happened last night was in a whole different league! There I was, minding my own business and wishing I didn't have quite so far to walk from the metro to the hotel when I suddenly discovered a microphone under my nose and a camera in my face! What, the intrepid reporter wanted to know, did I think about the quality of Russian products? Now, I am thinking, there is so much potential for a diplomatic incident here. What is the best way to proceed?! I decided on the tactful and diplomatic course if for no other reason than I was really tired and couldn't be bothered with the hassle!! Actually I probably looked like a rabbit caught in the headlights and jabbered like an idiot!
I would like to pretend that I covered myself in glory and conducted the entire interview in Russian...alas, not! But the reporter wasn't to be put off by such trivialities and spoke in English!! So, as a result I am now a minor celebrity...at least in the language school!
I am really begining to tire now and wish I was home. Two more days of classes and two free days to go. I leave on Monday but unfortunately not until the evening. They don't let you into the airport here until your flight is announced, usually and hour before departure so I will have to find something to do for the day that is reasonable close to the hotel. The Aurora and Finland Station are close by and therefore don't involve long walks or I may just sit in the hotel with a coffee and read a book. Anyway, between now and then I would quite like to have a quiet, incident free time!

Tuesday, April 7, 2009

Of Archives and Bureaucracy

I have spent the last couple of days with the archive tour group that came up from Moscow. I met up with them on Sunday at the Marble Palace where a local History professor did a quick tour covering the revolution. I didscovered where that British Embassy was housed at that time, which is useful to know. I do feel it helps to know where things are in relation to other things as it can give a better understanding of how events happened. We then decamped to a cafe to warm up with some tea and coffee (It was a bitterly cold day, but dry at least!) Tony and I stayed on to have something to eat there but everyone else headed of to do their own thing.
I arranged to meet up with the group at their hotel the following morning before heading back to the hotel on the metro. They are staying at the Hotel Moskva which is so much better than the crappy place we stayed in Moscow when I did the tour last year! RGIA was the destination so of we went on the metro. It has just opened in a brand new building which was a real change from the normal archives here. It has fantastic facilities, computerised catalogues, state-of-the-art scanning facilities etc. A really brilliant place to work we all thought. Then we tried to register! Only Brendan had a letter of recommendation with him so he was the only one they would allow to register but that fell through when he didn't have a photo! And he was only allowed to put one topic of interest down on the application form. I can see I will have to give it some thought before I commit to anything specific. I guess the trick is to make it as broad as possible! I wonder if they would accept 'Russian History' as the theme!!?
So even with all the modern facilities remnants of old style bureaucracy remain! Still, compared to the old Senate building where they used to be kept it is a palace. They showed us a film of the transfer of archives, which was, surprisingly, completed in only one day with 1700 trips in lorries.
As none of us were going to get to work there we headed of to find some bookshops over in the University area. It was a horrible, wet, cold day so walking was not very pleasant but Tony and I got to several bookshops and I was lucky enough to pick up 5 books on the emmigration.
At 6pm we met everyone again at the European University of St Petersburg where we had a talk about post grad courses there. They seem to have a great programme of courses for overseas students taught in English. Boris had then arranged a Georgian banquet for us at a local restaurant. There was so much food! I thought I would explode! Just when you thought everything had been brought to the table the waitresses would arrive with more food! And of course there was vodka and toasts! I knew I had to walk back to the hotel so I stuck to the wine. I didn't think it would be a good idea to stagger over Liteiny Bridge and fall into the Neva!!!
The hotel is so quiet now that the kids have gone. It is such a luxury to get a good night's sleep! And I was able to have a lie-in this morning as I am not meeting the group until this afternoon. We are getting a tour of the National Library which is just beside Gostiny Dvor, the enormous market. I have spotted a couple of hats there an I may be tempted to pop back in to get them!

Saturday, April 4, 2009

Of Celebrations and Obstacles

Suddenly I am half way through my stay in this wonderful city. I am torn between wanting it to last longer and getting home. Between Glasgow and here I seem to have been travelling forever and I really just want to curl up on my own sofa for more than a couple of nights at a time! However, I will be so sad to say goodbye to 'Peter' again.
Either The Pink Terrorists have departed or they were on their very best behaviour last night. Not a squeak! Celebrations! Obviously the gymnasts are much more serious and in bed early. I noticed an Italian team this morning as well as the others. Some of them have Beijing patches on their tracksuits so I am assuming they are the real deal and this is a major competition. Haven't seen TeamGB yet!
As it is Sunday morning everything is very quiet here. I will meet up with Tony and the archive tour people later today and we are going on a walking tour along the Embankment. Until then I am passing the time in CafeMax (Internet cafe) and probably have coffee and a muffin or two in Coffee House.
As I have mentioned in other posts the traffic here is something to bedold but I thought I would also add that it is not the only daily obstacle that needs to be carefully, yet nonchalently, negotiated! For a start, the pavements have not been flat since they were laid (doubtful if they were even flat then!) They are very uneven and full of potholes to trip up the unwary. If that is not enough, we have had snow and icy conditions here some mornings and gritting is not considered necessary. I have a very stout pair of walking boots but most young women here wear impossibly high stillettos and I have developed great respect for their ability to stay upright on icy, pot-holed pavements (and avoiding the tram lines as they cross the street!)
This morning I discovered yet another obstacle. Pavement cleaners with power hoses! These come in two forms. There is the two-man version where one operates the hose and the other sweeps the resulting mud into the street and the large truck that drives onto the pavement and use even larger hoses to blast pavements and lamp post and...well, generally anything they decide needs cleaning. I have to stress the size of these trucks. They are not the small Green Machines they push along the centre of Aberdeen to clean up the pavements, or even the chewing gum cleaners they brought in a couple of years back. These are like smaller versions of petrol tankers and not much smaller at that! Of course, the pavements on Nevsky Prospect and the width of a small street but I still prefer to think that pavements are for pedestrians and streets are for the traffic! These monsters just drive onto the pavement and start blasting away at the accumulated dirt and you had better get out of the way if you don't want a soaking! It is impossible to avoid a few splashes as these things are so powerful spray is sent in all directions when they get started.
I realized early on that personal responsibility is the byword here. If you get wet, knocked down, fall over, have falling masonary drop on your head there is no point looking for one of those personal injury lawyers here! You are absolutely responsible for your own safety out there. Once I realized that, it is really no more dangerous than any other place.

An Altercation with the Local Constabulary.

I ended up at the Russian Museum yesterday and spent a wonderful afternoon wandering around the exhibitions. It is much smaller than the Hermitage and easier to get around. They have some amazing artworks there and I discovered loads of Russian artists I had never heard of. There was also a special folk art exhibition and one about american artists of Russian descent. I did manage to get myself into a bit of a loop and went round the American artist's exhibition 3 times before finding the right exit! I obviously have an aura of 'shouldn't be allowed out on her own' as several female members of staff felt obliged to keep pointing me in the right direction which was invariable the opposite of the one I was headed in!
It was after 5pm when I left there and the weather had improved although it was still very cold. I went to my usual little bistro before heading back to the hotel. And this is where the day began to get really interesting!
I was just going in through the inner doors of the metro when I saw a young man charging towards me. He swerved past me and through the door but the cop behind him wasn't able to avoid me and sent me spinning! I am not sure it was the most graceful pirouette and it most certainly wasn't the best landing...on my a$$! However, I have to say the cop did not get off so lightly. He riccocheted off me into the door frame making a deep impression on his face!(They make the doors to last here!) He then continued in hot pursuit. My aura really shone then. I was the target of every concerned babushka for miles around. Bus loads of them seemed to arrive to help me!! They took a lot of persuading that I was actually none the worse for the experience and I eventually managed to get them to agree that I was capable of travelling on my own. I do however suspect that several of them may have followed me home just to make sure!!)Then the cop returned with his target firmly grasped by the collar! He will have a wonderful dent in his head today and an amazing black eye!! I have to admit to feeling quite pleased that I didn't let the side down in an away game....Scottish Tourist:1-Local Constabulary:0!
And I thought it was the little pink ones I had to worry about! Mind you, they really excelled themselves last night. It was nearly 2.00am before I finally got to sleep! Several people were telling them to quieten down but as one group of mini terrorists went to their rooms another emerged and started all over again. As I went down to breakfast this morning I noticed through the open bedroom doors that there were several empty beer bottles. It is a sad reality here that even children are alcoholics. They begin drinking at a young age and they drink every day. It seems normal to them but it is actually incredibly sad. Of course we have similar problems in Scotland but it is different here. What a waste of their lives. I think the life expectation of a Russian man is 50 something.
I have had one lesson already today and am having a break before going back for another this afternoon to make up for the one missed yesterday. After that I will probably just have something to eat and head back to the hotel. I may need to get a couple of hours kip before the noise starts and then I can read a book or something until they settle down. I would ask for a different room but I suspect that they have basically taken over the building! There are several hundred of then, not just a few dozen!!

Friday, April 3, 2009

Of Bottomless Lenin and Hula Hoops

It snowed last night so it is cold and damp today. A bit like Scotland really with one nice day followed by a crappy day. I managed to get some photos of Lenin yesterday before he was completely covered up. They have decided to hide his bottomlessness from public view until they decide what to do with him. It seems it will cost a lot to repair him and it is understandably not going down well in a city where there is abject poverty that could be alleviated by that money. Watch this space for further developments.
The grim news is that the pink tutus have now been joined by tracksuited mini gymnasts from various countries. My suspicions were first aroused as to this invasion when at breakfast I was faced with several yellow tracksuits bearing the name 'China' on the back, followed by white and red ones from Russia and blue from Kazakhstan. There were even some burgundy ones from Hungary. Am I to have no peace?
I suppose it is an educational experience. I hadn't previously been aware of the array of bags used to carry hula hoops in! There is the basic one, that comes in various colours and resembles a steering wheel cover. Then there are ones with special handles or even extra pockets. What would you put in the pocket of a hula hoop holder? Or why indeed does a hulahoop need a cover? Can they get damaged if not suitably protected?
I am having a day off today as my teacher couldn't get into the city this morning. Traffic problems are awful at the best of times and it was simply impassable today. She offered to come in later but I suggested that we just tag the time onto the end of other classes. So I am free to do touristy things. (What else can I blow up?)
I am thinking either the Hermitage or the Russian Museum...to visit, not blow up! Because the weather is so bad I think an indoor pursuit is better but I really want to get over to Stone Island and Yelagin Island before I leave.

Thursday, April 2, 2009

Has the Revolution started?

Early yesterday morning someone tried to blow up the famous statue of Lenin in front of Finland Station. I walked past it this morning but didn't see the damage. Apparently they put explosives inside and blew his bottom off! I will try to get photos tonight!
Apart from that all seems calm! Well, if you don't count the tutus. Unfortunately, my hopes of them disappearing yesterday did not come to fruition and the little darlings are still running around (maybe not for much longer!) I would complain at reception but it is hard to maintain umbrage when you can't really speak the language!
The weather has improved and it is very Spring like today. There is still lot of ice in the Neva but it is much warmer and the sun is shining. I plan to go to Vladimirskii cathedral today and perhaps Dostoevskii's house. I haven't been to either before but I am finding that my range is getting wider as I now use the metro!

Wednesday, April 1, 2009

6 Cars, 3 Lanes

I had forgotten how crazy the drivers are here! It was so much fun watching several cars jostling for a position on the 3 available lanes this morning. And I am once again getting used to crossing the roads St Petersburg style. There is only one rule...Show no fear. If you hesitate you are done for. Once you have seen the chance to cross, go for it. Of course this is a challenge to any self respecting motorist who will then try to kill you but you must not hesitate. That would be fatal. At best you would get very dirty from rolling on the bonnet of a car that has never been washed, at worst you would be dead! This brings me to s sub-clause of the only rule. Don't challenge drivers by making eye contact. I know, my reaction is usually to give them a 'de Nero' look. You know the one where he points to his own eyes with the index and forefingers and then points them at his victim?! Under no circumstances do this in Peter! The option of getting away dirty is then removed!
Showing no fear while acting completely nonchalently is the pinacle to which I aspire! I am in awe of the locals, usually older people under 5 foot in height, who step out without a care in the world. Sheer genius!
The 'no eye contact' rule is also recommended on the metro. I am slowly getting used to this form of torture. This morning I was practically rugby tackled to the floor at the kiosk. When I turned round to see who had so urgently needed to get in front of me it was a little old lady pointedly not making eye contact!
The pink tutus were out in force again last night. I thought it was going to be quiet so I went to bed only to be woken five minutes later by a fireworks display outside my window! There was nothing else to do but to watch it and then put up with the noise as hyped up little sproglets came running and screaming back along the corridor. My only hope was that the fireworks meant that they would be leaving today. Thankfully that appears to be the case as they were all pink and giggly outside the hotel when I left for the morning's traffic and metro entertainment.